SKIN CARE
Rosacea and sensitive skin Rosacea is a common inflammatory skin condition, with symptoms including persistent erythema, flushing, visible blood vessels, solid red bumps and pus-filled pimples that can resemble acne. Sufferers are often sensitive to skin care products, which may aggravate irritation and inflammation. In an eight-week clinical trial, 62 patients
with mild to moderate facial erythema used a skin care regimen containing licochalcone A. Clinical assessments and a quality-of-life questionnaire were conducted at baseline and at the end of the trial. The licochalcone treatment significantly reduced facial redness and was well tolerated.19
UVA and UVB
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Overproduction of melanin ROS activation of MAPK pathway
Glycyrrhiza extracts and their constituents
AP-1, NF-KB In a later randomised,
prospective study, licochalcone A demonstrated a statistically significant improvement in erythema control and skin hydration for symptom reduction after four weeks.20 Licochalcone A has also demonstrated
effectiveness in the treatment of sensitive skin, a condition affecting over 50% of adults. It is characterised by inflammation, erythema, pruritus (severe itching) and prickling or burning sensations. In an in vitro study, licochalcone A significantly decreased NF-χb signalling and the secretion of PGE2. The researchers then conducted two controlled, single-blinded, randomised clinical trials, which found that a post-shaving cream combining licochalcone A with 4-t-butycyclohexanol (an emollient agent known for its skin-soothing properties) reduced shaving-induced erythema.21
Acne Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin diseases, often occurring during puberty but also presenting as an adult-onset condition. Propionibacterium acnes (recently reclassified as Cutibacterium acnes) is a commensal skin bacterium implicated in the development of acne by stimulating the NLRP3 inflammasome, which plays a crucial role in inflammatory signalling. Licochalcone A has been demonstrated to control skin inflammation induced by P. acnes by suppressing NLRP3 inflammasome activity.10
Subcutaneous fat reduction Fat distribution and deposition are modulated by the catabolic hormone cortisol, which is converted from the inactive cortisone form by the enzyme 11ß-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1. Glycyrrhetinic acid blocks the enzyme, thereby decreasing cortisol available to adipocytes and inhibiting their growth. In a double-blind clinical study, 18 women
were randomly assigned to apply either 2.5% glycyrrhetinic acid or a placebo cream on the thigh. Circumference and ultrasound measurements of superficial fat layer thickness were taken at baseline and one month after twice daily application. Significant reductions in circumference and superficial fat layer thickness were observed in the treatment group compared to both the untreated thigh and the placebo group.22
Liquorice quality control and sustainability The growing popularity of and demand
www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Downregulation production of collagen and elastin
Wrinkles Figure 3: Prevention of photo-ageing byGlycyrrhiza root extracts4
Induction of collagen and elastic fibre degradation
Inhibition Induction of MMPs
Hyperpigmentation
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