SKIN CARE


Dual exosome power for skin rejuvenation


Katharina Kappler, Franziska Wandrey, Fred Zülli – Mibelle Biochemistry ABSTRACT


Exosomes have been increasingly discussed in the past few years due to their potential for the diagnosis and therapy of diseases, such as cancer and neurodegenerative diseases. Considering the effect of exosomes on wound healing, skin pigmentation, and hair loss, it is no surprise that they are applied in cutaneous medical aesthetics and in the meantime have also evolved into a hot topic in the world of cosmetics.


Exosomes – vesicles for cell-cell communication Exosomes, a type of extracellular vesicles with a double-layer membrane and a size of 30-200 nm, are released by eukaryotic cells and contain lipids, RNAs, proteins, and metabolites (Figure 1A). They are generated from larger intracellular vesicles called multivesicular bodies, which in turn are formed by the budding of the


A Lipid bilayer


Secondary plant metabolites Lipids mRNA


Enzymes miRNA Transmembrane proteins


Exosome


Endocytic uptake


Exocytotic release


Multivesicular body Secreting cell


Figure 1: Structure and function of exosomes. A: Exosomes are vesicles composed of a double-layer membrane and contain lipids, RNAs, proteins and metabolites. B: Exosomes are secreted from one cell to communicate with another cell


www.personalcaremagazine.com January 2025 PERSONAL CARE Recipient cell


cell membrane and are released from a cell when multivesicular bodies fuse with the cell membrane in a process known as exocytosis (Figure 1B). Therefore, exosomes can be detected in


biological fluids and in the supernatant of cultured cells. While initially being discussed as a delivery vehicle for cellular waste, it is nowadays acknowledged that exosomes are an important component of cellular communication systems. Exosomes released by one cell type can


initiate a response in other cell types via different mechanisms. They can either activate surface receptors of recipient cells be direct binding, or deliver functional proteins, lipids and RNA to the recipient cell via membrane fusion or be completely taken up into the recipient cell via endocytosis.


B


The potential of exosomes - a type of extracellular vesicles enabling cell-cell communication - for the cosmetic field has become increasingly clear over the past years. Mesenchymal stem cells in the skin, for instance, can improve collagen production and regenerate the skin by exosome-based communication with fibroblasts. Interestingly, plant-derived exosomes can also be taken up by and communicate with human cells, providing a great potential for cosmetic applications. This study investigated the effect of a goji stem cell active, naturally containing plant exosomes, on the skin. The active delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from outside into the skin directly acting on the epidermis to strengthen the skin barrier, as shown by the upregulation of genes important for the skin barrier function in keratinocytes treated with the active ingredient. In addition, it was shown that the goji stem cell active can boost the exosome secretion by mesenchymal stem cells and thereby improves communication with fibroblasts resulting in the improved production of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastin. This dual function based on exosomes – delivery of plant exosomes and boosting of the endogenous exosome production – leads to skin protection and rejuvenation. The effect was confirmed in three clinical studies demonstrating improved skin density and wrinkle depth as well as reduced skin sagging which led to a more oval shaped face and lifted breasts.


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