HAIR CARE
the dried tresses, which are measured again after rinsing and drying. The less the colour values change after a treatment then the more effective an active ingredient is deemed to by a retaining colour fastness.
Bio-based testing and future Most existing products and efficacy analysis works on the assumption that hair is a ‘dead’ structure. While hair growth and development is a living process originating in the hair follicle, once the hair leaves the follicle and exits the scalp it is functionally dead. Current treatments are aimed at repairing or
preventing further damage to the strand outside of the scalp but they cannot completely reverse damage that has already occurred. By targeting cells within the hair follicle either externally or via a nutricosmetic route it may be possibly to improve hair health from source. Dermal papilla (DP) cells are responsible
for the frequency of the regeneration of healthy hair follicles and the thickness, shape and colour of hair. These cells are located at the base of the hair follicle and regulate the hair growth cycle through a series of complex signaling pathways. DP cells can be grown in a lab and are widely
used to study hair growth and regeneration when exposed to various stresses known to impact hair growth and to determine if the stress is reduced when treated with an active ingredient. Positive results from these lab-based tests could be used to develop future actives. Bio-based testing is already utilized at JRSI
for addressing haircare concerns including issues such as dandruff. While not seen as directly a hair problem dandruff comes under the categorisation of hair and scalp health. Flaking, irritation, and inflammation from dandruff is known to affect the appearance and feeling about a consumer’s hair.
Figure 3: Applying DHA Dandruff can be caused by a range of
underlying conditions including autoimmune conditions, dry skin, and sensitivity to certain products. The main cause of dandruff however is believed to be due to an overgrowth of the yeast-like fungus, Malassezia. Malassezia is naturally present as part of
the healthy scalp microbiome, but when it reproduces too quickly, the natural skin cell renewal processes become disrupted causing skin cells to cluster together when shedding from the scalp surface. Existing synthetic ingredients improve dandruff symptoms by targeting Malassezia. At JRSI, a series of antifungal assays have
been developed to determine if natural ingredients are effective at preventing Malassezia growth and disrupting established Malassezia colonies. Bio-based testing is a powerful research
tool allowing for the identification and efficacy testing of new sustainable ingredients. However, despite the science behind these tools, the
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success of a product is ultimately determined by what a consumer sees and feels. Therefore, while bio-based testing will complement existing consumer focused methods they will never replace them.
How can we support customers? At JRSI, we have over thirty years of technical expertise in the personal care sector. Our Application & Formulation team is experienced in many areas of personal care. We can thus provide technical support with customer projects to help them deliver quality products that meet launch timelines. We offer training for customers interested in using different types of dyes. If a customer wants to enter the hair colouring industry for the first time, we can guide them on where to start and how to formulate with our dyes. We have successfully invited clients to our
lab for hands-on training, equipping them with the skills needed to return to their own labs and confidently develop their own product lines.
Conclusion At JRSI by understanding the complex structure of hair and employing advanced testing methods, we aim to develop products that not only strengthen and protect hair but also meet the evolving needs of our customers. We also understand the appearance and feel
of the hair are just as crucial. Does the treated hair look noticeably better than the untreated hair? Does it feel smoother or softer to the touch? The numbers are powerful development
tools but for a product to be successful the consumer’s perception also matters—will they see or feel a positive difference in their hair? While tests and numbers can indicate improvement, it is the visible and tangible difference between treated and untreated hair that will make a hair claim truly convincing.
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P roductVision® The Essence of Product Development Software
ProductVision software is the global choice to solve the problems of managing formulation and new product development allowing you to keep ahead of the game
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Functionality Modular design Powerful query function Graphical interface Automates development Reduces time to market Integrates into ERP systems Powerful legislative tools GHS compliant Full security and auditing Web accessible features
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• Costs • Allergen content • Product restrictions and many more …
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sales@asdsoftware.com January 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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