46 SKIN CARE A B 8 6 * Placebo ■ 0.4% Goji stem cell active ■
4
2
0 *p<0.05 versus initial conditions
Figure 7: Improved oval shape of the face after 28 days. A: Visible effect on the V-shape in the jawline region. B: Decrease in the neck/submandibular triangle area
volunteers, with each group applying either a cream with 0.4% goji stem cell active or the corresponding placebo on the breast area twice daily for a period of 56 days. The bust distances between the nipple
and the sternum as well as the nipple and the inframammary fold were measured by 3D Breast Imaging using VECTRA-XT (Canfield Scientific). A lifting of the breasts would result in a
reduced nipple-sternum distance while the nipple- inframammary fold distance would increase. The overall breast condition of the volunteers was determined by an investigator using the Regnault ptosis classification (score 0 = normal, score 1 = mild sagging, score 2 = moderate sagging, score 3 = severe sagging, score 4 = pseudoptosis). The elasticity of the skin was determined on the upper part of the breasts using the Cutometer Dual MPA 580 (Courage + Khazaka).
Results and discussion Plant exosome-containing stem cell extract The goji stem cell extract used for this study naturally contains exosomes derived from the cultivated goji plant stem cells. The particle size analysis of samples of the stem cell culture revealed the presence of exosomes with a size of approximately 200 nm determined by dynamic light scattering (Figure 2). Images taken by transmission electron
microscopy confirmed the presence and the size of these exosomes. In addition, the structure of intact exosomes enclosed by a double-layer membrane was visible in these images (Figure 2).
Plant exosomes to protect the skin The effect of the plant exosomes on the skin was assessed in keratinocytes treated with 0.1% goji stem cell extract for 24 hours. The treatment increased the expression of genes involved in the late differentiation and cornification process (CRCT1, LOR, LCE2B, LCE3D, FLG, CRNN) (Figure 3), whereas genes linked to early differentiation were downregulated (IVL, KRT2, KRT1, CALML5) (data not shown).
PERSONAL CARE January 2025 In aged skin, the barrier function can be
impaired and shows a reduced ability to recover. This leads to decreased protection of the skin and body from external aggressors, such as UV radiation, pollution or pathogens, and to difficulties in maintaining skin hydration. Thus, by supporting the formation of the stratum corneum to improve the function of the skin barrier, goji stem cell extract protects the skin from water loss and external aggressors. Additionally, in cells treated with goji stem
cell extract the expression of the two growth factors EGF (epidermal growth factor) and FGF7 (fibroblast growth factor 7) was significantly upregulated by 108 % and 161 %, respectively, and the gene expression of heat shock protein HSPA6 and antioxidant gene SOD3 was upregulated by 407 % and 64 %, respectively. Therefore, goji stem cell active may also stimulate dermal regeneration and protection by acting on keratinocytes.
Increased exosome release from mesenchymal stem cells in the skin To assess the effect of the goji stem cell extract on the exosome production inside the skin, human MSCs were either treated or not (control) with 0.1% goji stem cell extract for a period of 24 hours. The exosomes that were released from
the cells were quantified in two ways, either measuring the total protein or enzymatic activity of a known exosomal protein. Both quantification methods revealed that treatment with goji stem cell extract leads to an increase in exosome production by MSCs (Figure 4).
Stimulation of extracellular matrix genes through cell-cell communication After demonstrating the effect on exosome production in MSCs, it was investigated as to whether MSCs treated with goji stem cell extract can communicate with fibroblasts to produce more extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins. For this purpose, human MSCs were treated with 1% goji stem cell extract. The
supernatant, which includes soluble factors as well as exosomes (“conditioned medium”), was added to fibroblasts for a period of 24 hours. Fibroblasts treated with medium from untreated MSCs served as the control. Results showed that the conditioned
medium from goji stem cell extract-treated MSCs increased the gene expression of several ECM factors such as collagen 3 and 16 and elastin (Figure 5). PLOD1 is crucial for collagen production, while LOX encodes lysyl oxidase which connects collagen and elastin to ensure more stability and elasticity. The direct treatment of the fibroblasts did not have the same effect. Thus, the goji stem cell active improves cell-cell communication between MSCs and fibroblasts and thereby intensifies its plant exosome-based anti-aging effect.
Improvement of wrinkle depth and skin density In a clinical study, 23 Caucasian women aged between 41 and 69 years who displayed signs of photoaging, applied a cream containing 0.4% goji stem cell active and the corresponding placebo cream for two months. After 28 days, a significant improvement of skin density could be observed via ultrasonic measurements for the treatment with the goji stem cell active (data not shown). The collagen and elastic fibre structure of
an intact dermis yields many reflections from the ultrasonic wave that are visible as bright colours in the ultrasonographic image. However, disruption to this regular architecture leads to weaker reflections and dark patches, as can be seen in the ultrasonographic image at day 0. These so-called subepidermal low-echogenic bands (SLEB) are commonly found in aged and photodamaged skin. The SLEB could be reduced after 28 days treatment with 0.4% goji stem cell active (Figure 6A). Furthermore, after 56 days, a significant
decrease in wrinkle depth in the crow’s feet area by 11% compared to placebo could be measured (Figure 6B). Not only fine wrinkles
www.personalcaremagazine.com
AFTER 28 DAYS
BEFORE
Decrease in neck/submandibular triangle area compared to initial conditions in %
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