62 SKIN CARE


for traditional herbal medicines such as liquorice brings increasing challenges around adulteration. In the United States, it has been estimated that up to 50% of products may include incorrect species.23


This has


implications for product efficacy as well as consumer health and confidence in herbal products.


The UK Centre for the Promotion of


Imports (CBI) recommends that liquorice buyers adopt quality management standards such as ISO 2200 and ISO 9001:2015 by the International Organization for Standardization and Food Safety System Certification (FSSC) 2200. Countries including the United States, UK, China, Japan and Thailand have also strengthened regulatory oversight of natural herbal remedies. Methods for identifying plant species include DNA analysis and barcoding.23 The sustainability of herbal products


is another growing consumer concern. NielsenIQ’s 2023 Sustainable Beauty report found that 62% of consumers now view sustainability as a greater priority compared to two years ago,24


yet accelerating demand has


endangered wild liquorice species in recent years.23


BGG has been extracting liquorice roots


since 1995 and controls the entire supply chain, from harvesting to the finished product. Its liquorice roots are sourced from wildcrafted plants in pristine regions across Asia and the Middle East, including China, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. To ensure sustainability, the roots are


harvested in winter from three- to four-year- old plants after their leaves have fallen. This method helps preserve the plants for future growth. Once collected, the roots undergo botanical identification, cleaning and drying. They are then quarantined and subjected to comprehensive chemical screening for contaminants. Any batch failing a single test is discarded. Each liquorice product uses a specific


liquorice species and the manufacturing process is tightly regulated, from grinding and extraction to concentration, purification, drying, packaging and labelling. All materials are certified non-GMO by independent third- party auditors such as Ecocert.


Conclusion Research from Euromonitor International shows that skin treatments and moisturisers accounted for almost 25% of new product development in the BPC space in 2023, with innovation centred on wellness and efficacy benefits.25 Liquorice is substantiated for cosmetic use


by traditional knowledge and modern science, demonstrating its versatility for a range of skin care needs, including as an anti-inflammatory product with benefits for skin sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and concerns such as eczema and acne. In a market increasingly focused on natural, plant-based, sustainably sourced ingredients, liquorice is an effective solution for advanced skin care products targeting naturally healthy skin.


PERSONAL CARE January 2025


References


1. NielsenIQ. 2030 Glow-up: The Future of Clean Beauty. 18 October 2021


2. Pastorino G et al. Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra): a phytochemical and pharmacological review. Phytother Res. 2018;32:2323-2339


3. Wu Y et al. Pharmacological effects and underlying mechanisms of licorice-derived flavonoids. eCAM. 2022;9523071


4. Cerulli A et al. Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and their constituents as active cosmeceutical ingredients. Cosmetics. 2022;9,7


5. Sangkaewa Wet al. Bioactive substance content and therapeutic potential for skin inflammation of an herbal get containing Derris reticulata and Glycyrrhiza glabra. Pharm Biol. 2024;62(1):648-658


6. Hoffmann J et al. New herbal biomedicines for the topical treatment of dermatological disorders. Biomedicines. 2020;8(27)


7. Yokota T et al. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Res. 1998;11:355–361


8. Simmler C et al. Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia. 2013;90:160-184


9. Angelova-Fischer I et al. Stand-alone emollient treatment reduces flares after discontinuation of topical steroid treatment in atopic dermatitis: a double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled, left-right comparison study. Acta Derm Venereol. 2018;98:517-523


10. Yang G et al. Licochalcone A attenuates acne symptoms mediated by suppression of NLRP3 inflammasome. Phytother Res. 2018;32(12):2551-2559


11. Yang R et al. The pharmacological activities of licorice. Planta Med. 2015;81:1654-1669


12. Zhang J et al. Review on the diverse biological effects of glabridin. Drug Des Devel Ther. 2023;17:15-37


13. Wang Y et al. Synergistic promotion on tyrosinase inhibition by antioxidants. Molecules. 2018;23;106


PC


14. Grippaudo FR et al. Effects of topical application of B-Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment. J Cosmet


Dermatol. 2016;15(4):413-419


15. Kühnl J et al. Licochalcone A activates Nrf2 in vitro and contributes to licorice extract- induced lowered cutaneous oxidative stress in vivo. Exp Dermatol. 2015;24(1):42-7


16. Abramovits W et al. A multicenter, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical study to examine the efficacy and safety of MAS063DP (Atopiclair) in the management of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in adults. J Drugs Dermatol. 2006;5(3):236-44


17. Seiwerth J et al. Anti-inflammatory effect of a novel topical herbal composition (VEL- 091604) consisting of gentian root, licorice root and willow bark extract. Planta Med. 2019;85(7):608-614


18. Udompataikul M, Srisatwaja W. Comparative trial of moisturizer containing licochalcone A vs. hydrocortisone lotion in the treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis: a pilot study. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25(6):660-5


19. WeberTM et al. Skin tolerance, efficacy, and


quality of life of patients with red facial skin using a skin care regimen containing licochalcone A. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2006;5(3):227-32


20. Boonchai Wet al. Randomized investigator- blinded comparative study of moisturizer containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A versus 0.02% triamcinolone acetonide cream in facial dermatitis. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17(6):1130-1135


21. Sulzberger M et al. Effective treatment for sensitive skin: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016;30 Suppl 1:9-17


22. Armanini D et al. Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application. Steroids. 2005 Jul;70(8):538-42


23. Li J et al. Using SSR-HRM to identify closely related species in herbal medicine products: a case study on licorice. Front Pharmac. 2018, 9:407


24. NielsenIQ. Trends in Sustainable Beauty. 20 November 2023


25. Euromonitor International. 1 August 2024. https://www.euromonitor.com/press/ press-releases/august-2024/more-than- 25-of-all-new-brands-launched-are-in- the-beauty-and-personal-care-industry- euromonitor-international


www.personalcaremagazine.com


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76