Volume 26 Issue 1
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Eckart News
69 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Jewel in the crown Mintel associate director for beauty and
personal care for India, Tanya Rajani, discusses the current and coming beauty trends in India and the wider world for 2025 and beyond
21 AI and cosmetics: a new era 35 Enhancing reliability in product 54 Polysaccharide microgels
of claims washing? Theresa Callaghan of Callaghan Consulting International explores the delicate balance between harnessing the power of AI for genuine technological breakthroughs and maintaining ethical transparency in marketing, as the line between innovation and manipulation becomes increasingly blurred
27 Top five Australian naturals
for hair care As consumers increasingly seek hair care products that are both effective and free from harmful ingredients, native Australian botanicals have emerged as a popular choice. Down Under Enterprises describes the top five native Australian natural ingredients for hair and scalp care
31 A rough guide to testing hair health British personal care manufacturer James Robinson Speciality Ingredients explains why, while tests and numbers can indicate improvement, it is the visible and tangible difference between treated and untreated hair that will make a hair claim truly convincing
evaluation Before and after trials serve as invaluable tools for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic products. However, as Dermaclaim explores, their reliability and integrity depend on the strict adherence to standardized practices that not only benefits the industry but also empowers consumers
43 Dual exosome power for
skin rejuvenation Swiss cosmetic ingredient maker Mibelle Biochemistry describes the effect of a goji stem cell active, naturally containing plant exosomes, on the skin. The active delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from outside into the skin directly acting on the epidermis to strengthen the skin barrier
49 Powerful peptides for
healthy-looking skin DSM-Firmenich presents data and key findings from in vivo studies that demonstrate how a multi-peptide beauty complex leads to multiple skin benefits. These benefits include visibly smoother skin, a noticeable improvement in dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, and a visible reduction in fine lines on the crow’s feet and neck lines
for enhanced hair care Biopolax explains why polysaccharide microgels are an effective component for creating shampoos with enhanced chelating and cleansing properties. They combine the functional characteristics of various single components – such as thickeners, complexing agents, aesthetic appearance modifiers - without losing consumer properties
59 Scientific foundations of liquorice
in skin care Liquorice is substantiated for cosmetic use for a range of skin care needs, as an anti-inflammatory product with benefits for skin sensitivity, hyperpigmentation and concerns such as eczema and acne. Chinese ingredient maker BGG reviews the scientific evidence for the benefits of liquorice extracts from a skin care perspective, with a focus on the bioactive compounds glycyrrhizin, glabridin and licochalcone
65 Harnessing stem cells for
sustainable ingredients Cobiosa and Rubisco Biotechnology describe the promising development of a stem cell extract from the leaf of Aristotelia chilensis, also known as maqui or Chilean wineberry. This active ingredient has been shown to be an antioxidant, a good promoter of type I collagen synthesis, reduce melanin synthesis and prevent reactions that trigger MMP-1
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January 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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