50 SKIN CARE
pressure to build up. Fluid then accumulates and can lead to visible dark circles and puffiness under the eyes. For maturing skin to look its best, skin
care solutions therefore need to provide an antioxidant effect, boost collagen, regulate collagenase and elastase, stimulate the microcirculation and improve skin hydration.
Natural peptides for holistic beauty To maximise healthy-looking skin benefits in a holistic way, DSM-Firmenich developed a clean and potent multi-peptide beauty complex that can address multiple skin needs. The concept of incorporating ‘superfood’
ingredients into holistic beauty products has gained popularity in recent years. This new beauty complex – REGU®-AGE CB - taps into the potential in natural peptides derived from two superfoods that provide a superior source of health-giving nutrients and proteins beneficial to the skin – soybean and rice. This unique active complex comprises
two key components. The first is a mixture of carefully purified rice and soybean peptides. The second is a biotechnologically produced, skin-identical superoxide dismutase – a potent and crucial antioxidant enzyme that helps to protect cells from oxidative damage. All the peptides in this complex are
manufactured using a targeted protein hydrolysis process and the skin-identical superoxide dismutase is obtained by aerobic fermentation isolated from a natural yeast strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. By using these production techniques, it is possible to create a very environmentally and powerful active ingredient.
Targeting multiple skin processes for multiple skin benefits In vitro tests show that this beauty complex works on multiple skin processes that influence skin appearance. ■ By inhibiting reactive oxygen radicals, it can protect skin against oxidative stress. ■ By improving microcirculation, it can improve the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eye.
UNTREATED Day 0 Figure 1: Eye puffiness evolution. Digital camera images for a selected subject
■ By inhibiting inflammatory elastases and collagenases, it can protect the collagen and elastin matrix, helping the skin to retain elasticity, firmness and moisture. ■ By stimulating fibroblast proliferation, it can minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Human studies involving European and
Chinese subjects also demonstrate how this ingredient’s in vitro potential translates to visible skin benefits in vivo.
Proven in vivo benefits for European skin To investigate the beauty complex’s effect on skin texture and moisturisation, and on under- eye puffiness and dark circles, 20 European females, age 30+, took part in a double- blind, randomised, placebo-controlled study. Volunteers applied either an active formulation with 5% of the beauty complex or a placebo formulation to the whole face twice daily for 56 days. A range of measurements were taken from
all volunteers the day before they applied the test formulations (day 0) and then on days 28 and 56 of application. The following parameters were assessed: skin texture in the canthus area, skin moisturisation on the cheek, and puffiness and dark circles under the eye.
3% ACTIVE FORMULATION Day 1 3% ACTIVE FORMULATION Week 2
Skin texture and moisturisation improve significantly Changes in skin texture compared to day 0 were quantified by taking replicas around the canthus area. These replicas were then analysed using a computer image analysis system. The results were significant compared to the placebo, with a 32% improvement in skin texture recorded at four weeks (day 28). This improvement increased further, to 42%, after eight weeks (day 56). Changes in skin moisture compared to day
0 were assessed at defined sites around the cheek area using a Nova impedance meter. These measurements revealed a 19% increase in skin moisturisation in four weeks, rising to 28% in eight weeks – a significant result compared to the placebo.
A noticeable improvement in dark circles and puffiness under the eyes in four weeks Trained technicians assessed changes in under- eye puffiness and dark circles versus day 0 using a scoring scale of zero to three. Compared to the placebo, significant improvements were noted. Puffiness under the eye improved 25% in
four weeks and 31% in eight weeks. For dark circles under the eye, a 32% improvement was observed at four weeks, increasing to 35% at eight weeks. These noticeable changes were
3% ACTIVE FORMULATION Week 4 UNTREATED DAY 0 5% ACTIVE FORMULATION WEEK 8
Figure 2: Smoother skin evolution. Example of Visia-CR images for one subject PERSONAL CARE January 2025
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