HAIR CARE
Ca2+ Mg2+ CaCO3
55
Polysaccharide microgels Sodium gluconate
Sodium citrate dihydrate 0
Polysaccharide microgels Sodium gluconate
Sodium citrate dihydrate 0
Polysaccharide microgels Sodium gluconate
Sodium citrate dihydrate 0 5 10 15 Figure 2: Chelating capacity of polysaccharide microgels (by solid matter) as mg metal/g for Ca2+
increase the rinsing speed, ensuring safe use for humans and helping to save water which is an important factor for eco-conscious consumers. The product is cold- or hot-processable and added at the last stage of the formulation for thickening effect which simplifies handling in the production. Key advantages of this component include its
low carbon footprint and biodegradability in both aerobic and anaerobic conditions (OECD 301F). This innovative technology can be applicable for both EU Ecolabel and Ecocert certification for wash-off cosmetic products.
Chelating properties One of the most interesting properties of polysaccharide microgels is their chelating ability. These additives contain polydentate ligands that bind and inhibit hardness ions by forming chelates (Figure 1). Mineral salts of metals can accumulate and distribute within the hair structure.1 Metal cations can enter the hair from various exogenous sources, such as tap water, which primarily contains calcium and magnesium ions,2
as well as industrial emissions.3 , Mg2+
that binds with one gram of the chelating additive and serves as a measure of its effectiveness. Additionally, the chelating action of well-known chelating additives widely used in cosmetic chemistry was investigated for comparison purposes (Figure 2). Figure 2 shows that the chelating properties
of polysaccharide microgels surpass those of known agents such as citrate and sodium gluconate by 3–5.5 times.
Fluffiness test of the sustainable chelating shampoo with polysaccharide microgels Two samples of chelating shampoos were prepared to evaluate the impact of polysaccharide microgels on hair: a control sample without the additive and samples with the microgels. Tests were conducted on tresses of natural
The ability
of hair to bind metals significantly depends on how damaged it is. Damaged and weakened hair surfaces form anionic fragments that are available for binding with metal cations.4 Therefore, special components in hair care
products are needed to reduce the negative impact of mineral ions on hair while meeting dermatological safety and biodegradability requirements. The addition of polysaccharide microgels offers a solution to these functional and consumer problems.
Assessing the chelating ability of polysaccharide microgels versus comparable agents The presence of chelating properties in microgels was tested using the complexometric titration method. This approach involves titrating the excess Ca2+
and Mg2+ ions that did
not react with the additive. This indicator reflects the amount of metal
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brown hair, divided into equal test strands. After pre-cleaning the test strands with a foamed 10% solution of sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), the tresses were soaked in prepared hard water at 28°DH for 12 hours to simulate the effect of hard tap water. The strands were combed with
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 0.0% 0.5% 1.0% 1.5% 2.0% 2.5% 3.0%
Figure 3: Tests of the chelating effect of shampoo with polysaccharide microgels where excellent mark for changing of the strand length ΔL above 3 mm (increases the fluffiness of hair), good result for ΔL from -3 to 3 mm (does not affect the fluffiness of the hair)
January 2025 PERSONAL CARE 20 and CaCO3
a fine-toothed comb before and after drying. The horizontal distance between the outermost hairs of the strand was measured 15 cm from the top edge of the strand. Each strand was then treated with 2 g of the
test shampoos, both without the polysaccharide microgels and with different percentages of the additive. After rinsing the hair with distilled water, the test strands were allowed to dry in a vertical position for 24 hours. The hair was combed again with a fine-
toothed comb, and the horizontal distance between the outermost hairs of the strand was measured with a ruler. the length of the strand The results of the chelating action test of the shampoo on hair saturated with hard water ions show that the addition of polysaccharide microgels in amounts of 2.0-3.0% (by product) in shampoos significantly increases the fluffiness of natural hair strands exposed to hard water. This can be explained by the fact that the
proposed component binds the divalent metal ions that were fixed on the hair and weighed it down. Thanks to the additive, weakened and damaged hair gains fluffiness and a healthy appearance.
25 30 35 40 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
mm change
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