FORMULATIONS NATURAL AND LONG-WEARING FOUNDATION


RR 8243


W/O emulsions help to meet the requirements of more sustainable cosmetic formulations. They deliver a high level of performance that unites smooth finish with good coverage, but these emulsions often still lack the durability properties required by formulators. Baycusan® eco E 1001 film-former provides long-lasting sweat resistance, transfer resistance and mask-proof properties without compromising on the sustainability aspect. The matte foundation is easy to apply and leaves no stickiness or balling effects after drying.


PHASE PRODUCT/ INCI NAME


A1 Polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate Coco-caprylate/caprate


Triheptanoin (and) C13-16 isoparafin Caprylic/ capric triglyceride


Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil Quaternium-90 bentonite Ethanol


A2 CI77891 (and) hydrogenated lecithin CI77492 (and) hydrogenated lecithin CI77491 (and) hydrogenated lecithin CI77499 (and) hydrogenated lecithin


B Water Glycerin Sodium chloride C


Phenylpropanol (and) propanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) tocopherol Baycusan® eco E 1001 (as supplied)


SUPPLIERS % W/W 4.00 5.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 0.80 0.40 8.00 0.70 0.40 0.18


51.02 10.00 1.00 1.50


5.00


Procedure: Disperse phase A1 except emulsifier and ethanol and then homogenize at 10,000 rpm for 5 min. Mix phase A2 into phase A1 and then homogenize at 10,000 rpm for 5 min. Then add ethanol while homogenizing at 10,000 rpm for 3 mins. Add emulsifier while mixing well. Disperse the phase B in a separate vessel. Add phase B to phase A slowly while mixing. Then mix phase A/B with a stirrer at 1,000 rpm for 5 min. Add ingredients of phase C one-by-one while stirring at 800 rpm for 5 min.


WATERPROOFING MASCARA RR 8236


Up to now, the main drawback of more natural mascaras has been the lack of water resistance, as well as a tendency to clump and smudge. Adding a film former can boost the performance of the formulation. Plant-based Baycusan® eco E1001 imparts superior waterproofing and anti-smudging properties, yet at the same time enables mascara to be removed more easily with warm water.


PHASE PRODUCT/ INCI NAME A Water


Xanthan gum B Iron oxide black


C Glyceryl stearate SE Beeswax


Rice bran wax


D Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) C15-19 alkane (and) polyglyceryl-6 laurate (and) polyglycerin-6


E


Phenylpropanol (and) caprylyl glycol Baycusan® eco E1001


SUPPLIERS % W/W up to 100 0.80 8.00 3.00 6.00 5.00


1


2 3 4


5 6


2.00 1.50


20.00


Procedure: Dissolve ingredients of phase A in water at 80°C. In a separate vessel, combine phase C ingredients at 90°C. When all solids are melted, add Phase B into Phase C, mix until uniform. When the phases are uniform, slowly add phase B/C to phase A. The emulsion is homogenized. Cool down at 60°C, add phase D into phase A/B/C. Cool down to 45°C, add phase E ingredients one-by-one into phase A/B/C/D and mix well.


LITTLE BOOK OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS


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