WINDSURFING INTO THE UNKNOWN Luckily by then Phil and Rossi made some friends, and a foto Max Alm-Norell
connection was made between them and a local windsurfer from Malindi named Morris. Generously, Morris offered to drive down and pick up the guys with their equipment and drive them up to their first stop in Watamu at the Turtle Bay Beach Club. Morris showed up with a small, fully open, old school jeep. A huge grin instantly appeared on his face when he saw our pile of gear. Te two pros were sceptical about loading up the equipment, but fortunately the optimistic Morris had no worries about his car or how it would all fit. Apart from the guys backpacks, all suitcases and boardbags would have to be somehow strapped to the roof and outsides of the vehicle. With 4 boardbags on the roof and 2 suitcases strapped to the spare tire on the back the guys hit the road: over the ferry, through Mombasa and north to Watamu. Te fully loaded Jeep made the travellers stand-out, not so much as visitors to the country, but as a sight of interest for locals and tourists alike. At a pit-stop on the way, a coach bus full of Italian tourists heading to Malindi stopped, and passengers unloaded in order to take photos of the loaded car. Te windsurfers had become a part of the Kenyan experience for a group of tourists. Apart from being at the end of pointed fingers and gazes from locals and tourists, the drive also involved endless stretches of pineapple fields on either side of the road and hundreds of crazy Matatu’s. Morris completely ignored two police check-points, explaining that they asked him to stop too late, and anyways all they want are bribes. At Turtle Bay Beach Club in Watamu the guys found the first
organized windsurf equipment storage of the trip. Glancing from a distance it appeared they were walking into a small windsurf rental center, but with closer inspection every sail hanging in the racks was at least 10 years old and completely crinkled. It was already mid-aſternoon and the wind was up, so quick
rigging was the call and the two hit the water. Te following 4 days were spent sailing out through the moored fishing boats and out in the fascinating waters of Watamu. Depending on the tides the sailing conditions varied a lot. At
low tide the water was shallow, but sailable, and there was flat water just downwind of a sandbar sticking out of the water. At higher tides, a small swell rolled in breaking over the sandbar creating smooth water between the swell coming in and small ramps on the way out. In the middle of the sailing area there was a huge coral head sticking out of the water. Looking upwind and downwind more coral heads protrude out of the water, creating a dramatic scene. In addition to the coral heads, sea turtles can be spoted daily while windsurfing. Near-by Watamu National Marine Park claims to boast the 2nd largest variety of marine-life,
STRAIGHT ALONG IN FRONT OF CHE SHALE THE WIND IS ONSHORE AND SLIGHTLY FROM THE RIGHT. THE WATER IS DEEP SO A SWELL BUILDS UP WITH THE WIND IN THE AFTERNOON AND IT BECOMES A REALLY NICE BUMP AND JUMP SPOT.
second only to the Great Barrier Reef. Turtle Bay Beach Club is an all inclusive type resort on the white beaches of Turtle Bay just North of Watamu National Marine Park. As traveling windsurfers, Phil and Rossi are used to living on the cheap, but the waiters who could read their minds when they wanted a drink and a full service team at the watersports center put smiles on their faces. Che Shale was the final destination for the guys, just North of
Malindi. A conversation with the driver from Watamu to Che Shale revealed a lot about the security situation in Kenya and how to understand the travel advisories issued by many countries. He explained the reasons for the 2008 post election violence were mostly caused by grudges between tribes, and that all of that violence took place inland. None of it was aimed at, or against tourists. Tere are more than 40 tribes in Kenya, and 28 of them can be found along the coastal regions. He described these coastal people as more open minded. Living on the coast they not only have so many different tribes in a small area, but they are also frequented by tourists and other visitors arriving on the coast. Most Kenyans living on the ocean make their livelihoods from tourism, and so they know their future lies in the image they create for these visitors. For example he described how Malindi became a ghost town for a few weeks aſter the highly publicised kidnapping near the Somalian border in 2011. Near the end of this litle information session courtesy of the
driver, he turned off the main road, down a short dirt road and onto some tracks in the sand laid out with coconut peelings. Te coconut peelings on the sand allowed the non 4x4 minivan access to Che Shale. Te place is the only hotel on its 5km stretch of beach and is tucked away in vegetation of Palm and Casaruina trees making it very quiet and secluded. Tose trees along with other local renewable materials were used to build everything at CheShale in a simple, yet stylish manner. Tere are 7 rooms at Che Shale, all without any real doors or windows. Everything is open and the wind blows through keeping the rooms at a comfortable temperature. In the evenings a generator runs to heat water for a warm shower and for a chance to turn on a light or charge bateries. Che Shale has a small kitesurfing school on the beach where they offered to store the rigged windsurfing equipment. Even with the school there, during the busiest time on the water there were 3 people out, and again Phil and Rossi were the only windsurfers. Te bay there offers a wide assortment of spots one can choose
to sail. Straight along in front of Che Shale the wind is onshore and slightly from the right. Te water is deep so a swell builds up with the wind in the aſternoon and it becomes a really nice bump and jump spot. To the right side of Che Shale the water is shallower and much flater. You can even sail in between local fishing boats moored up in a tiny bay. Moving further out and towards the right you make your way to the outside reef which varies in depth, and so it seems it would work with any type of tide. Phil and Rossi scored a couple fun sessions there jumping on their freestyle boards.
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