advanced skin care
Beta-carotene, which is part of the carotenoids family, converts to vitaminA, which is themost important nutrient for skin health.
Another powerfulmember of the carotenoid family is Lutein which can be found in leafy vegetables such as kale, cabbage, spinach and broccoli as well as egg yolks, peppers and kiwi fruits.A clinical study has shown that a supplement containing 10mg of lutein daily increased skin hydration, elasticity and lipid content. (2)
topical applications
In addition to being consumed orally, antioxidants should also be applied topically in order to protect against environmental
aggressors.Various studies have shown that when they are applied to the skin, especially vitamins C, E andAlpha Lipoic acid, there is a noticeable protective effect against free radical damage.
In a double-blind study, a topical vitamin C complex was applied to one-half of the face and a placebo gel to the opposite side (3)
.The results showed a clinically visible
improvement of the vitamin C-treated side after 12 weeks, with decreased photo- ageing scores of the cheeks andmouth
area.The overall improvement of the vitamin C side was statistically significant and biopsies showed increased collagen formation in the vitamin C group.
Another study showed that topical vitaminA treatment stimulated collagen and reduced an enzyme which breaks it down, leading tomore suppleness and elasticity. Other research shows that applying vitaminA has a protective effect against skin cancer.
Just as oral antioxidants shouldn’t be taken in isolation, the same can be said for those that are applied topically. Dr Des Fernandes, a leading aesthetic surgeon and founder of Environ Skincare, recommends using a combination of several which all work in synergy. “When we supply the skin with high levels of vitamin C, we find that levels of vitaminA in the skin increase, thismay be because vitamin C helps preserve vitaminA.We also find that levels of vitamin E
rise.This is one of the reasons I believe that a brigade of antioxidants is so essential rather than the simple replacement of vitaminA or E, which has been the practice of other cosmetics,” he says. Indeed, Dr Fenandes’Environ creams are also enriched with plant antioxidants such as GreenTea, RooibosTea and HoneybushTea which work in synergy with the active vitamins to repair and protect the skin.
Superior sunscreens harness antioxidants’ powers of sun protection, which gives theman extra line of defence against damaging UV rays. “Unlike creams, their protection cannot be washed
off.That’s why we added antioxidants to our RAD sunscreen,” says Dr Fernandes. “Vitamin C, for example, will continue to protect skin for around 36 hours.”
As the body of research behind antioxidants grows, it’s clear that they’re a powerful weapon in the fight against ageing. By offering your clients skin care brands which contain high levels, and also recommending that they take themin supplement form, you can ensure they’re getting the right nutrients for healthy, radiant skin.
Sources: 1
H.Tronier, Skin Pharmacology Physiology 19; 224-231 2006
2Morganti P., Palambo, P., et al (2006). “New Evidence for Efficacy of Lutein/Zeaxanthin in Skin Health”. Beyond Beauty Paris conference abstract
3 Fitzpatrick RE, et al. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatology Surgery 2002Mar;28(3):231-6.
Karen Deehan works for the
International Institute for Anti-Ageing (iiaa), UK distributors of Environ skin care, Jane Iredale Mineral Cosmetics and Advanced Nutrition Programme
t: 0208 450 2020 w:
www.iiaa.eu @iiaaLtd
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