hyperpigmentation under theglare


As the Spring sunshine begins to appear and we look forward to the hottermonths ahead, our natural response is to head outside andmake themost of the warmer weather while it lasts.


However, even just a short amount of time spent in the glare of the daylight has repercussions for our skin even if the effects are not immediately obvious.


Over time,many of us will begin to notice the appearance of dark spots or patches on our skin.These sun or age spots are known as hyperpigmentation and are highly common imperfections. Indeedmany of your customers, and in particular yourmature clients, will no doubt suffer fromsome form of pigmentation problemto varying degrees. So, what exactly is causing these changes to occur?


“The problemof hyperpigmentation is increasing and clients aremore likely to suffer fromit for a variety of reasons,” says Sharon Cass, Brand and EducationManager at SkinBrands@Cosmeceuticals. “It ismost often caused by sun exposure that occurs when clients are younger and then resurfaces in later years. Hormonal factors, stress, medication and post-inflammatory responses can also cause this condition.”


“Hyperpigmentation is a concentrated, and often localised, increase in the skin’s natural colour,most often caused by sun exposure,” explains Gary Baulch,Managing Director of DermaQuest UK. “It is a common and usually harmless condition in which patches of skin become darker than the surrounding skin due tomelanin deposits called ‘solar lentigines’or commonly referred to as age or liver spots. These small, darkened patches are usually found on the hands, face and any other areas that are frequently exposed to the sun.


“Ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes excessive melanin production,meaning themelanocytes are stimulated andmelanin is deposited to protect the skin fromoverexposure.The result is darkening of areas that are already hyperpigmented, and darkening of new areas that were previously undamaged.”


treatment time


“Even though pigmentation is completely harmless, people aremore concerned about this on a cosmetic level,” says Emma Mackintosh of NaturaStudios.


“Hyperpigmentation ismost common and prominent on the face, hands and neck, and this is why people tend to be anxious about hyperpigmentation as it is not something that they can easily hide away. Statistics show that around 43%of women in the UK are concerned about pigmentation.”


With an increasing number of individuals wishing to tackle this aesthetic concern, there is high demand out there to consider adding hyperpigmentation products and services to your beautymenu. Luckily, when it comes to tackling these blemishes there are a host of options available which will enable you to effectively treat within the salon and also recommend for your clients to use at home in- between professional treatments.


Technological solutions such as Microdermabrasion and light-based systems can provide effective results. Often these devices can be used to target not only specific skin care concerns like pigmentation, but also offer overall rejuvenation benefits to ageing skins, providing a versatile addition to your portfolio. “Treatments that can be very useful includeMicrodermabrasion to reduce dead cell build up and the use of skin needling and Laser treatments to increase skin renewal and repair,” notes Sharon.


If your clients would prefer to adopt amore topical approach to their skin care, such items as peels,masks and brightening creams can be incorporated within your professional services and also retailed in order to alleviate and diminish the signs of pigmentation.


“Products to treat this condition work in two key ways;most often they aimto interrupt the process that producesmelanin (any ingredients target the enzymeTyrosinase) or by actually breaking down existing pigment build up,” explains Sharon.


“AHAs are great for reducing the build-up of dead cells thereforemaking the pigment less noticeable,” she continues. “Tyrosinase inhibitors that are particularly effective include Methyl Gentisate (fromthe genitian plant), CoffeeBerry®


extract (packed with Ferulic and


QuinicAcid) as well as Licorice, Embilica, Arbutin and KojicAcid.”


“While the use of HydroxyAcids (Lactic Acid, GlycolicAcid and Salicylic Scid) in skin brightening products has generally been utilised to accelerate desquamation and removal of pigmented keratinocytes, it has recently been shown that a 5%concentration of LacticAcid, will inhibit the formation of theTyrosinase enzyme, thereby slowing the


process ofmelanin synthesis,” says Sally Penford, EducationManager at the International Dermal Institute. “This new approach to effectingmelanin synthesis is unique to LacticAcid and does not occur with otherAlpha HydroxyAcids such as Glycolic Acid or the Beta HydroxyAcid, Salicylic Acid.


She continues: “Other exfoliating agents used in brightening products include Pumpkin enzyme, sutilains, (a protease enzyme), lactobacillus ferment, and galactoarabian, a molecule that stimulates natural desquamation in the skin.”


Prior to the administering of any treatments or products, it’s important to remember that not every client’s pigmentation problems will be the same.Therefore conducting a thorough consultation is amust to ascertain and assess such factors as the type, depth and severity of the problem. If at any time you are worried about the appearance of a clients’ pigmentation, it is best to have themchecked out by amedical professional to confirmthat the area is safe to treat.


preventative products


Another way in which you can help your clients to regulate and prevent further damage to their skin is by recommending products which contain sun protection factors (SPFs). With Summer holidays at the forefront of people’sminds, this is the ideal time of year to suggest and retail such items.


“Use of sun protection factor (SPF) products is amust for every skin care client,” explains Gary. “SPF products allow the skin to block the harmful energy of the sun’s rays to prevent hyperpigmentation.The sun protectormust be classified as a broad-spectrumsunscreen to guarantee that it blocks both ultravioletA (ageing) and B (burning) rays.”


“Educate clients about the need for daily broad spectrumdaylight defence as the last step in theirmorning regimen,” suggests Sally. “A shift is necessary in how we think about UV protection – from‘sun’ to ‘daylight’ protection, year-round.Themost obvious means of controlling pigmentation, especially sun induced, would be to apply a broad- spectrumsunscreen with aminimumSPF of 15 regularly.This will help control future pigmentation.”


Turn the page to see a selection of treatments and products that can help tackle hyperpigmentation…


108 GUILD NEWS


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