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nails: hard gels toughen up!


Despite our very best efforts, some of us are simply not blessed with the ability to grow long and luscious nails the natural way. Luckily there is a handy solution to this problemand a quick visit to the local salon or Spa can help us achieve our desired look with ease through the application of nail enhancements.


Although the liquid and powder technique still remains a popular choice with technicians across the country, over recent yearsmany professionals have started to introduce their clients to themany benefits of hard gel systems providing themwith an alternative way in which to add length and strength to their natural nails.


“Hard gels are gettingmore andmore popular nowadays,” says KerryMoores, Technical Educator at Crystal Nails UK. “Most companies are putting great effort into creating better and better hard gels to help salon work.”


“Hard gel came about as an easier system to apply than acrylics,” explains Rachel Gribble, Salon SystemEducator. “Chemically, they’re very similar to acrylics, but gels are premixed and don’t set / cure until placed under a UV or LED lamp.This gives the technician time to apply the gel and set it once completely happy with the application.”


differences and benefits


So, what are themain differences and advantages of hard gel systems in comparison to not only acrylic enhancements, but also their soft / soak-off gel counterparts?


One key component to their success is that hard gels offer extensions that blend seamlessly with your client’s own nails, providing amore natural look as opposed to artificial. “Like acrylics, hard gels are used to extend and strengthen the natural nail, however hard gels have a littlemore flexibility than acrylics, and can look a little more natural,” explains Rachel. “Being none porous, they are a good option for clients in contact with a lot of water and chemicals, as they’re less likely to lift.The high gloss finish is also whatmany clients love about gels.


“[Another] benefit of gels is that they self- level to different degrees, again,making the application easier. Because of this, hard gel requiresminimumif not no filing.”


“Hard gels give strength to the natural nails,” adds Kerry. “They also lastmuch longer than soak-off gels – you can be sure even if your client is heavy handed, hard gel won’t peel off. If you use hard gel you will be able to create different designs inside and outside of the nails which gives you manymore possibilities than you ever thought.”


Once applied, hard gel applications will typically last between two to three weeks before the client will need to return to the salon for removal or infills.Themain difference between the two types of gel – soft and hard – lies in their removal. Soft gels can be removed via a soak-off process with a special product remover, whereas due to their non-porous formulation, hard gels will require the nail technician to buff away the product.


“When your client returns for an infill or rebalance you will only file the new nail unlike soak-off gels where you would soak themoff and then file the whole nail again creating nail thinning,” says Kerry. “Always leave a thin layer of hard gel fromthe previous application, of course if there is any lifting you will need to take off.


“During infills it is essential that you perfectly blend the hard gel with the natural nails to prevent lifting lines. Lots of practice will enable you to use your file perfectly and without damage to the natural nails.”


decisions, decisions


Although youmay already provide nail enhancement services through the traditional liquid and powdermethod, hard gels should be treated as a separate entity so embarking on additional training in this type of systemis essential before considering adding to your beautymenu.


“I would always advise people take a product knowledge course before you start to use your chosen hard gel, asmany companies’hard gels have very different application and consistency,” advises Kerry. “Of course the right application is one of themost important things to learn, so you can build the perfect C-curve and thickness of the extension.


“It is also important to find the builder gel which suits you best and then ensure you learn everything about this gel,” she continues. “It is best to search for one-phase gels (thismeans you can build the full extension fromit and you don’t need a separate base gel) that are acid-free and mediumdensity (so it does not run into the cuticle).”


Of course, the type of enhancement you ultimately recommend for your clients should always be based on their lifestyle and individual preferences. For instance, although hard gelsmay offer amore natural looking and flexible option, acrylic extensions are highly robust and therefore tend to last longer. It’s also important to consider the condition and any concerns affecting your clients’natural nails before selecting the right system. “Gel enhancements are durable and retentive and are ideal for hard, brittle nails requiring resilient protection, added length or redesign,” notes NataliyaAl-Ta’ai, CND EducationAmbassador. “Clients with weak nails willmostly benefit fromliquid and powder enhancements.”


Turn over the page to see the latest hard gel systems available…


Image courtesy of NSI.


148 GUILD NEWS


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