HAIR CARE
1.70 1.65 1.60 1.55 1.50 1.45 1.40
Formic acid Cashmere coat 1.68 1.68 1.50
1.70 1.65 1.60 1.55 1.50 1.45 1.40
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Hydrolysed keratin derived from cashmere Cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin is produced by hydrolysing cashmere fibres. The most commonly used hydrolysed keratin in hair care products is derived from wool. We have also been offering wool-derived hydrolysed keratin as the Proticute series for over 20 years. Wool keratin hydrolysates are well known
for their ability to improve hair strength and are widely used as treatments for severely damaged hair. However, while they provide strong repairing effects, they also carry the risk of leaving the hair with a coarse, stiff feel. To meet the needs of users seeking a softer,
more natural touch—particularly for mildly damaged hair—we developed a new type of hydrolysed keratin using cashmere, which contains less cysteine. This lower cysteine content allows the ingredient to deliver a gentler, more natural feel compared to conventional hydrolysed keratin products. In general, hydrolysates with higher molecular
weights tend to remain on the hair surface more effectively and create a stronger film-like coating. However, higher molecular weights can also destabilize formulations and result in unpredictable hair feel. Our cashmere-derived
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Figure 1: Effects of cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin on formic acid treated hair
Ultrasonic treatment
Cashmere coat
81
1.68 1.63
1.51
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hydrolysed keratin has a moderate molecular weight of approximately 6,000, which allows it to adhere well to the hair without imparting an overly strong or artificial texture. Furthermore, it features relatively broad
molecular weight distribution, enabling it to efficiently repair damage from the surface to the inner layers of the cuticle. As the inner structure of the cuticle is known to contribute to hair elasticity and body, this ingredient provides a more natural type of repair that differs from surface-level film-forming effects. Compared to conventional hydrolysed keratins, it also has the added benefits of lower odour and superior formulation stability.
Effects of cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin on daily damage Test sample The hair bundles used for the test were soaked in a 1% sodium lauryl sulfate solution in advance, washed with running water, wiped off with a towel to remove moisture, and air-dried overnight.
Effects of cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin on Hair from which CMC has been eluted The cuticle CMC is most affected by daily damage, and CMC can be extracted using
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Figure 2: Effects of cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin on ultrasonically- treated hair
a high concentration of an organic acid.1 In
this experiment, hair whose CMC had been damaged was treated with cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin to verify its effects on hair with damaged CMC.
Test method Hair bundles were soaked in 95% formic acid for 15 minutes at room temperature. After that, they were thoroughly washed with running water, wiped off with a towel to remove moisture, then air-dried at room temperature overnight to create formic acid-treated hair bundles. Then, cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin
was applied to the formic acid-treated hair bundles and treatment was performed at room temperature for five minutes. After treatment, hair bundles were thoroughly washed with running water, wiped off with a towel to remove moisture, then air-dried at room temperature overnight. Untreated hair bundles, formic acid-
treated hair bundles, and cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin-treated hair bundles were each equilibrated overnight in a constant temperature and humidity room (25°C, 50%rh), then the torsional stiffness of each hair sample was measured using the KES-YN1 torsional stiffness tester manufactured by Kato Tech.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2025 PERSONAL CARE
Torsional stiffness (GPa)
Torsional stiffness (GPa)
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