HAIR CARE
Novel biomimetic keratin peptide for bond building
Farahdia Edouard, Ramdane Haddouche, Mike Hindley, Helene Hine - Croda Beauty
A paradigm shift is reshaping the hair care landscape, as discerning consumers increasingly seek biomimetic and science-backed solutions that deliver impactful molecular- level improvements in hair health, going beyond mere cosmetic enhancements. This trend reflects the ‘skinification of hair,’ where consumers demand the same level of scientific efficacy and holistic care for their hair as they do for their skin.
This demand is particularly pronounced within the hair repair category, which has seen substantial growth, with the global bond builder market alone valued at an estimated $237m in 2023 and projected to reach $442m by 2030, reflecting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.3%.1 This expansion is also being driven by
the desire for self-expression, with more consumers actively engaging in frequent colour transformations, intensive chemical treatments, and regular heat styling—all of which compromise the intrinsic structural integrity of the hair fibre. Despite the abundance of products claiming
to ‘strengthen’ or ‘repair’ hair, the number of truly efficacious bond-building technologies remains limited. The category was initially established in 2014 with the launch of Olaplex, known for its dimaleate chemistry and focus on repairing damage during chemical processes like bleaching. It later evolved with K18’s introduction of
a biomimetic keratin designed for repair after damage had occurred, marking a significant evolution in the chemistries targeting this critical area. Until recently, no ingredient supplier had brought a comparable solution to market for the formulator. The launch of KeraBio™ K31 (Hydrolyzed
sr-(Tripeptide-137 Hexapeptide-40 sh- Polypeptide-184 sh-Polypeptide-146), a novel biomimetic keratin peptide developed through advanced biotechnology, marks a major step forward, introducing a supplier-led innovation to the biomimetic bond building space. This active is engineered to specifically
address molecular-level damage by facilitating the recharge of hair’s intrinsic keratin, thereby enhancing hair strength. This article delves into the scientific background, production methodology, and comprehensive performance data that positions this biomimetic bond building peptide as a pivotal development in advanced hair repair.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Biotechnology production process The development of this novel peptide is rooted in a sophisticated synthetic biology approach, employing a precision-engineered biotechnology production process. This cutting-edge methodology ensures the targeted synthesis of a keratin peptide that possesses a sequence designed to be identical to human hair keratin, and this high degree of biomimicry is what makes this active so effective. The iterative engineering biology cycle, often
referred to as the Design-Build-Test-Learn (DBTL) cycle, underpins the entire development process.
Design phase (in silico study) This initial phase leverages advanced computational bioinformatics, AI-driven algorithms and proteomics research. Researchers conduct detailed in silico studies to analyse the human hair keratin proteome at a molecular level. This involves identifying specific amino acid sequences and structural motifs critical for hair integrity. Based on this understanding, multiple hair
keratin peptide candidates are computationally designed. Careful selection is then made for the most optimal candidates, prioritising those with high sequence identity to human hair keratin
and predicted functionality for repair. This precision engineering minimises trial-and-error in subsequent wet-lab phases.
Build phase (microbial cell factory engineering) Selected peptide sequences from the design phase are then translated into genetic instructions. These instructions are used to genetically engineer microbial host organisms, transforming them into ‘microbial cell factories’. These modified microorganisms are
optimised to efficiently express and produce the desired keratin peptides. The choice of microbial host is critical, influencing expression levels and scalability. This phase involves meticulous molecular cloning and genetic manipulation to ensure stable and high-yield production of the target biomimetic peptide.
Test phase (efficacy screening and validation) Peptides produced in the build phase undergo rigorous efficacy screening. Samples are prepared and subjected to comprehensive tests for binding affinity and assessments of hair strengthening. This stage is crucial for confirming the peptide’s activity and its potential to deliver the desired hair repair benefits. Each test provides quantitative data that feeds back into the learning phase.
September 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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