46 SKIN CARE
The C-Label and cultivated cell ingredients
Mario Chin, Carrie Chan – Avant Proteins
Proteins and peptides are key active ingredients in skin care formulations, valued for their vital roles in supporting skin structure, hydration, and cellular signaling. Biomolecules such as collagen, elastin, and keratin are fundamental to maintaining skin elasticity, firmness, and repair. For example, collagen enhances tensile strength and structural integrity, while elastin promotes flexibility and resilience.1-3 Historically, these proteins have been
sourced from animals—collagen from bovine or porcine tissues, elastin from ligaments, and keratin from feathers or wool. These natural sources offer a rich supply of structural proteins that closely resemble those found in human skin, making them highly effective for topical use.
Limitations of current peptide technology The use of animal-derived proteins in skin care has raised ethical, allergenic, and safety concerns, driving the industry toward more sustainable and controlled alternatives. Biotechnology advancements have paved the way for recombinant proteins and synthetic peptides that mimic the functions of natural molecules without the associated risks. For instance, recombinant DNA technology
enables the production of human-like collagen in microbial systems, while synthetic peptides can be precisely engineered to address specific skin issues such as wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation. These innovations enhance product safety and consistency, while also meeting the growing consumer demand for cruelty-free and animal-free skin care solutions. In recent years, the cosmetic industry has
embraced multifunctional peptides that offer benefits beyond structural support. These include: ■ Signaling peptides, which stimulate the production of collagen and other extracellular matrix components, promoting skin regeneration and firmness. ■ Carrier peptides, which enhance the delivery of essential trace elements like copper and magnesium, supporting cellular repair and function. ■ Enzyme-inhibitor peptides, which help maintain skin integrity by reducing the activity of enzymes that break down collagen and elastin. Despite their potential, the production of these peptides is still limited by current
PERSONAL CARE September 2025
manufacturing technologies. Whether synthesized chemically or produced via recombinant methods, each production line typically yields only a single peptide species. This constraint poses a significant challenge
for developing advanced formulations that require a synergistic blend of multiple peptides, ultimately limiting innovation and formulation flexibility within the skin care industry.
The latest trend in skin care: cell- identical peptides To address the limitations of current peptide technologies, a promising approach involves extracting proteins directly from cells and hydrolyzing them into peptides. Cells naturally produce proteins in precise quantities and ratios necessary for optimal function. By replicating this cell-identical mixture of
structural and signaling proteins and converting them into smaller, absorbable peptides, we can support epidermal regeneration, repair, and stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. However, plant-based sources are not viable
for this purpose. The biological composition of Plantae differs significantly from Animalia, and essential signaling proteins are either absent or present in trace amounts in plants. Traditional chemical extraction methods are
inefficient and unsustainable, while synthetic peptides often lack bioidentical properties and fail to activate multiple cellular pathways. Recombinant technologies can produce
biologically similar single protein molecules, but these represent only a fraction of the hundreds of signaling proteins required, limiting their efficacy and increasing the risk of overdosage. The cutting-edge trend in skin care now
centres on cell cultivation to produce cell- identical multi-peptides. This method offers a more holistic and biologically relevant solution, delivering a complex blend of peptides that closely mimic the skin’s natural signaling environment—unlocking new potential for advanced, effective, and sustainable skin care formulations.
Cell-identical multi-peptide complex made from cultivated cells Advancements in biotechnology have enabled the production of cell-identical peptides from cultivated cells, offering a more ethical, sustainable and traceable alternative. One such innovation is the Zellulin® bioplatform, a pioneering and patented technology that produces ZelluGEN™, a novel cell-identical multi-peptide complex derived from cultivated cells.4 skin.5
It is clinically proven to promote healthy This bioplatform uses cells taken from a
single fish to produce an infinite number of new cells. This eliminates the need to source cells from any additional fish or other animals. The extracted cells contain all the functional materials for proper cellular functioning. All these functional materials are extracted
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