Volume 26 Issue 8
CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 9 33 Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik News
84 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Interview: Changing the industry Jim Minicucci is the senior vice president and
general manager of Ashland’s personal care division. In conversation with editor Tim Probert, Jim discusses the US firm’s global strategy and wider personal care industry trends
21 Sun, science and surprising insights Margarita Gomez-Nadin, the chair of California Society of Cosmetic Chemists Suppliers’ Day, previews next month’s event on 29-30 October. In addition, we highlight selected exhibitors who will showcase their latest products and services on the show floor at the Long Beach Convention Centre, USA
33 Evaluating the efficacy of upcycled ingredients
There are challenges surrounding the selection of appropriate upcycled ingredients to ensure safety and efficacy. Inabata France et al outline the essential steps for selecting, sourcing, developing, and producing a new series of upcycled active ingredients, using a group of five extracts as a case study
39 Are exosomes and EVs just beauty buzzwords?
Are exosomes and EVs truly the future of cosmetic science, or are they just beauty buzzwords? Spencer Marsh of Gourdie Lab at Virginia Tech’s Fralin Biomedical Research Institute examines the science behind exosomes and EVs and evaluates whether they live up to the hype
46 The C-Label and cultivated cell ingredients
Advancements in biotechnology have enabled the production of cell-identical peptides from cultivated cells, offering a more ethical, sustainable and traceable alternative. Avant Proteins describes a pioneering bioplatform that produces a novel cell-identical multi-peptide complex derived from cultivated cells
51 Novel biomimetic keratin peptide for bond building
Croda presents a novel biomimetic keratin peptide developed through advanced biotechnology that introduces a supplier-led innovation to the biomimetic bond building space. The active is engineered to specifically address molecular-level damage by facilitating the recharge of hair’s intrinsic keratin, thereby enhancing hair strength
57 Botanical extract for skin longevity and resilience
Biocogent describes a dual botanical extract that ameliorates the negative impacts of at least four distinct hallmarks of ageing: chronic inflammation, (inflammaging), altered intercellular communication, epigenetic alterations, and diminished proteostasis. These benefits appear to be promulgated by the material’s activity focusing on the dermal-epidermal junction
63 Natural proteoglycans for superior hair care
Evolved By Nature explores the science, functionality, and formulation potential of its proprietary technology that re-engineers upcycled silk fibroin into custom peptides, and why these novel ingredients represent a new standard for high-performance hair care
69 Novel biotech for advanced skin care Fasting has been shown to modulate key pathways associated with cellular maintenance and lifespan extension. Vytrus Biotech introduces a fasting-mimicking approach as an innovative cosmetic strategy to support skin health, resilience, and longevity
75 Why pentylene glycol is a must-have ingredient
As both a humectant and antimicrobial component, the multifunctional ingredient pentylene glycol plays a key role in the development of safe, stable, and effective cosmetic products while also contributing to a product’s sensory profile, as Cosphatec explains
80 Cashmere-derived keratin for hair care
Ichimaru Pharcos introduces cashmere-derived hydrolysed keratin developed for repairing cuticle cell membrane complex in response to the increasing need for measures against daily damage as well as its repair action
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September 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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