40 EXOSOMES
exosomes and EVs is of the utmost importance. Exosomes can only be created by living cells, and not just any cells. Mammalian cells, with the right internal
machinery, are well-equipped to produce them. That is why the origin of these vesicles is critical, especially in the context of cosmetic products. Their identification relies on specific protein
biomarkers, typically a molecule or protein, that help distinguish them. In mammalian exosomes, classic markers include tetraspanins (CD9, CD63, CD81), TSG101, Alix, and flotillin, which are associated with endosomal biogenesis and membrane trafficking.2
These markers not only
confirm the vesicle’s identity but also reflect its origin and potential biological activity.
What about plant-derived vesicles? In recent years, “plant exosomes” have entered the market, often referred to as Plant-Derived Exosome-Like Nanovesicles (PELNs).3 For cosmetics, they have attractive features such as their sustainability, natural abundance, and some promising skin benefits. Recent studies have highlighted the antioxidant, anti- inflammatory, and wound-healing effects of these compounds in skin models. For example, PELNs have been shown to
reduce oxidative stress, promote fibroblast survival, stimulate cell migration, and accelerate tissue regeneration in in vivo and in vitro models. These effects are attributed to their cargo of proteins, lipids, and RNAs, which can modulate cellular pathways related to stress response and proliferation (Figure 3). But there’s a catch: plant cells do not have the same structures as animal cells, and their membranes are encased in a rigid cell wall, calling into question whether they can truly produce exosomes as we understand them. There is literature support for the ability of plant cells to generate a multivesicular body through the limiting membrane; however, this area is lacking in robust research.4 Another key distinction is that plant EVs
do not consistently express the classical mammalian exosome markers (CD9, CD63, CD81, TSG101, flotillin). Instead, they are characterized by alternative markers such as heat shock proteins, aquaporins, clathrin heavy chain, and patellin-3. The biogenesis of plant EVs is also
less well understood, with multiple proposed pathways and ongoing research into how these vesicles cross the rigid plant cell wall. As a result, plant EVs may represent a distinct class of vesicles with unique compositions and mechanisms, requiring further research to fully elucidate their roles and optimize their use in skin care. While sourcing exosomes and EVs
from plants has led to uncertainty in the field regarding their source and composition, there is a wealth of other sources that groups have used to characterize and classify secreted nanovesicles from human-cell-derived and milk-derived sources. Both sources can produce exosomes and EVs, as they contain the organelles necessary
PERSONAL CARE September 2025
Figure 2: Exosomes contain a rich biological cargo that influences the signaling pathways of cells and facilitates skin repair
for the biogenesis of both exosomes and EVs. Mammalian cells and tissues are the most rigorously examined and are the gold standard for exosomes and EVs, buoyed by decades of research in the field.
Human-derived exosomes: potent but problematic Human-derived exosomes, especially those harvested from stem cells or platelets, show enormous promise. Studies suggest they can improve wound healing, prevent scarring, combat sun damage, and even support hair regrowth.
These sources are typically derived from cells such as Mesenchymal stem cells, which are
commonly sourced from Adipose (fat) tissue, Umbilical cord (placental) tissue, and bone marrow. While these sources have been the subject
of the most investigation in pre-clinical and clinical trials, with benefits such as wound healing, scar prophylaxis, photodamage prevention, skin regeneration, and hair loss mitigation,5
these products are typically quite
expensive to produce. Indeed, they are generally produced on a
small scale—a recent publication that touts the industrial, large-scale production of mesenchymal-stem cell-derived EVs reports micrograms per batch, which translates to 1,000,000 times less than a gram.6 With this level being touted as industrial
production of EVs, the overall production limits of cell-derived EVs have inevitably resulted in limited applicability to a large industry such as cosmetics. Furthermore, the use of human- derived exosomes has not enjoyed a similar level of success from regulatory bodies- the use of human-derived exosomes is banned across most of the world, including some of the largest markets for cosmetics.7 While there are notable drawbacks, such as high production costs, limited scalability, and regulatory scrutiny, the most serious issue confronting human-derived exosomes and EVs in
cosmetics is quality control concerns. These concerns have highlighted variability in exosome quality due to differential methods of purification and sources used, and standardization has not been achieved, leading to minimal use
of human-derived exosomes in cosmetics to date, primarily due to concerns over safety and inadequate quality controls. In conclusion, while human-derived
Figure 3: Plant-derived exosome-like nanoparticle(PELN)
exosomes and EVs remain a hot topic in pharmaceutical research, their use in everyday
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