UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS


of each extract are shown in Table 3. In general, woody by-products require a higher concentration to exhibit a certain level of efficacy. In bold are highlighted the selected.


Step 2: Measuring the efficacy of the ingredients In order to assess the protective efficacy of upcycled ingredients against UV-A-induced skin damage, several key biomarkers were evaluated in skin explants exposed to UV-A irradiation: ■ Carbonylation levels of proteins in the mitochondria, indicating the loss of homeostasis due to oxidative damage4 ■ Filaggrin presence, associated with epidermal hydration and barrier function5 ■ IL-1a quantification, which is linked to the inflammation state6 ■ S100a8/a9 (calprotectin) release, an antimicrobial and pro-inflammatory protein complex7 For the immunodetection of filaggrin, IL-1α,


and S100A8/A9, non-specific binding sites were blocked with PBS containing 3% BSA. Skin sections were incubated with primary antibodies (Rabbit Anti-Filaggrin, Mouse Anti-S100A8/A9, Rabbit Anti-IL-1α) diluted in PBS-BSA. After washing with PBS-T, sections were


incubated with a fluorophore-conjugated secondary antibody (Goat Anti-mouse and Anti-Rabbit Alexafluor 647) in PBS-BSA. Nuclear staining was done using DAPI in PBS, followed by washes with PBS-T to remove excess antibodies and DAPI.


CONTROL STRESS (UV-A)


0.1% CHESTNUT BARK EXTRACT + STRESS


35


0.03% WHITE TEA EXTRACT + STRESS


0.03% LIQUORICE LEAVES EXTRACT + STRESS


0.01% ALMOND SHELLS EXTRACT + STRESS


0.08% GRAPEVINE WOOD EXTRACT + STRESS


_


Nuclear labelling (DAPI) ■ Filaggrin


+


Figure 2: In situ visualisation of Filaggrin levels by epifluorescence microscopy. The specific signal of Filaggrin labelling is visualized in a colour range (low levels in dark, high levels in bright colours) and superposed to the cellular nuclei (DAPI, in cyan)


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September 2025 PERSONAL CARE


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