UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS
experimental group, normalised to the control, as shown in Figure 5. All extracts counteracted the stress-mediated increase of IL-1α levels. In Figure 6, we observe the in-situ
detection of S100A8/A9 levels (visualised in yellow) were performed by epifluorescence microscopy. As expected, the stress (UV-A) increased the S100A8/A9 levels. The presence of all the extracts counteracted the stress- induced increase of S100A8/A9 levels.
Overall protection: S100A8/A9 The S100A8/A9 levels (%) are reported in Figure 7 as mean values +/- SD per experimental group, normalized to the control. The presence of all products significantly counteracted the stress- mediated increase of S100A8/A9 levels.
Conclusion The use of by-products of the agro-food and forestry industries coupled with microwave extraction has made it possible to obtain a series of sustainable cosmetic ingredients by limiting solvent consumption, energy, and waste production. Indeed, the extraction is carried out with 100% natural and recyclable solvents (water + bioethanol). The efficacy tests performed on these
ingredients indicate beneficial effects on key markers of skin biological functions involved in oxidative stress and photo-ageing, mitochondrial homeostasis, skin hydration and barrier function, and skin inflammation upon stress exposure (UV-A irradiation) underlying their potential use in cosmetics. Nevertheless, a complete life cycle analysis
should be carried out to calculate the effective reduction of producing, transporting, and using by-products from agro-food and forestry industries.
PC
References 1. Martins AM, Marto JM. A sustainable life cycle for cosmetics: From design and development to post-use phase. Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy. 2023; 35, 101178
2. Mondello A, Salomone R, Mondello G. Exploring circular economy in the cosmetic industry: Insights from a literature review. Environmental Impact Assessment Review. 2024; 105, 107443
3. Lucchesi ME, Chemat F, Smadja J. Solvent- free microwave extraction of essential oil from aromatic herbs: comparison with conventional hydro-distillation. Journal of Chromatography A. 2004; Volume 1043, Issue 2, 323-327
4. Baraibar MA, Friguet B. Oxidative proteome modifications target specific cellular pathways during oxidative stress, cellular senescence and ageing. Experimental Gerontology. 2013; 48(7), 620–625
5. Brown SJ, McLean WI. One remarkable molecule: filaggrin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2012; 132(3), 751-762
6. Feldmeyer L, Werner S, French LE, Beer HD. Interleukin-1, inflammasomes and the skin. European Journal of Cell Biology. 2010; 89(9), 638-644
7. Wang S, Song R, Wang Z, Jing Z, Ma WS. S100A8/A9 in Inflammation. Front. Immunol. 2018; 9, 1298
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 8: Graphical abstract September 2025 PERSONAL CARE
0.03% WHITE TEA EXTRACT + STRESS
0.03% LIQUORICE LEAVES EXTRACT + STRESS
0.01% ALMOND SHELLS EXTRACT + STRESS
CONTROL STRESS (UV-A)
0.1% CHESTNUT BARK EXTRACT + STRESS
37
0.08% GRAPEVINE WOOD EXTRACT + STRESS
S100A8/A9 ■ Nuclear labelling (DAPI) ■
Figure 6: Figure 6: In situ visualisation of S100A8/A9 levels by epifluorescence microscopy. The specific signal of S100A8/A9 (yellow) labelling is visualised superposed to the cellular nuclei (DAPI, in cyan)
240 220 200 180 160 140 120 100 80 60
* ** *** *** ***
**
Figure 7: Quantification of S100A8/A9 levels. The levels of S100A8/A9 of each experimental group are expressed as relative values (% vs Control) and shown as mean +/- S.D. ***, p<0.001; **, p<0.01; *, p<0.05 – one-way ANOVA and Dunnett’s post hoc test for multi-comparisons vs Stress group (alpha=0.05)
S100a8-a9 levels (RFU/surface, % of control)
Control Stress (UV-A) 0.1% Chestnuts Bark Extract + Stress
0.03% White Tea Leaves Extract + Stress 0.03% Liquorice Leaves Extract + Stress 0.01% Almond Shells Extract + Stress 0.08% Grapevine Wood Extract + Stress
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