BURGUNDY ❘ HIDDEN FRANCE
rival Willy Wonka’s – and where, like Charlie and co, you can enjoy a guided tour.
Another must-see ‘beautiful village’, and one that will transport you straight back to the Middle Ages, is Noyers-sur-Serein. It’s worth taking the time to linger in the lanes, enjoying the half-timbered houses and many craftsmen’s shops. On a further point of interest for movie buffs, part of the classic French comedy, La Grande Vadrouille, was also shot here.
A CINEMATIC STOPOVER Lunch is at La Fontaignotte, a 17th-century manor lovingly restored into a charming guesthouse and restaurant, in Semur-en-Auxois. Here, we find another connection to the French film world – at the helm are former cinema producer Charles Gassot and partner, Fabienne, now trailblazers for the region’s tourism. In their latest project, they are helping to put Burgundy’s lesser-known gems on the map with a new heritage trail, marked by sculptures of itinerant entertainers, ‘Les Saltimbanques’, and supported by a special app. Certainly, a must on any visitor’s itinerary should be the nearby town of Saulieu – the ‘capital’ of the Morvan Regional Park – where you will find forests, lakes and nature spanning 285,000 hectares. As well as being a centre for gastronomy, the town is also renowned for its beautiful basilica, Saint-Andoche, which has just celebrated its 900th anniversary. Recently renovated, this jewel of Romanesque architecture is famed for its sculpted columns with illustrations from the Old and New Testaments comprising magical flora and fauna. In addition, Saulieu is the birthplace of the sculptor Pompon, once an assistant to Rodin, who became
“LOOK OUT FOR THE MAGNIFICENT TYMPANUM, DEPICTING THE LAST JUDGEMENT IN EXTRAORDINARY DETAIL”
famous for his enchanting animal sculptures. Today, a lovely little museum pays tribute to his legacy. We complete our tour of the town with a visit to the award-winning spa, Loiseau des Sens, before strolling across the street to spend the night at the Hostellerie de la Tour d’Auxois. A converted 13th-century convent, the hotel is also home to a popular restaurant.
REMARKABLE RUINS
For the final day of our adventures, we embark upon a journey even further back in time – amid the impressive Gallo-Roman remains of Autun. First up, we explore the atmospheric ruin of the Temple of Janus which, thanks to aerial archaeology, we now know was the epicentre of several important buildings. Elsewhere, you can also visit the Roman amphitheatre, two surviving city gates and a mysterious stone pyramid. Also, be sure to see the imposing cathedral of Saint-Lazare – another fine example of Romanesque architecture – and celebrating its 900th anniversary this year. Again, look out for the magnificent tympanum, depicting the Last Judgement in extraordinary detail, and signed by Gislebertus – who also created the beautifully-decorated capitals inside.
We finish our trip with a picnic overlooking the Roman amphitheatre – once one of the largest in the western empire with a 17,000-seat capacity. Just one more surprise among the many awaiting you in Burgundy. FT
Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 81
Clockwise from main image: Characterful Noyers-sur-Serein; the distinctive flag of Burgundy; the pretty medieval enclave of Semur-en-Auxois; atmospheric ruins of the Temple of Janus at Autun; The striking Last Judgement tympanum at Autun’s Saint-Lazare cathedral; Anis de Flavigny sweets; the spectacular underground pool at Château de Vault-de-Lugny; fine wine tasting at Domaine La Croix Montjoie in Tharoiseau
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