HIDDEN FRANCE ❘ BURGUNDY


OFF THE BEATEN TRACK S


tanding atop a small hillside, deep in the forests of northern Burgundy, it feels for all the world as though we have just stepped back in time. In the clearing before us, workers clad in woollen smocks are tapping away with hammers and


chisels, while a blacksmith is busy forging tools. Beyond them, rising from the landscape like something out of a dream, a full-size medieval castle is taking shape in front of us.


Contrary to appearances, however, we haven’t fallen into a stupor after one too many of the region’s famous wines, nor have we wandered onto a fi lmset. In fact, this is Guédelon – where a team of master-builders is creating a 13th-century château from scratch. It’s an extraordinary example of experimental archaeology in action and a chance to see history in the making before your very eyes.


As it turns out, this is just one of many unexpected wonders to be found in the region of Burgundy – or Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, to give it its proper title, following the merger with its neighbour in 2014. Indeed, take the time to explore beyond the well- worn paths of the vineyards – with their celebrated chardonnays, chablis and pinot noirs – and there’s a treasure around every corner. And that’s not to


78 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Apr/May 2020


AROUND BURGUNDY While it may be most famous for its celebrated wines, the region of Burgundy is also full of surprises, as Caroline Harrap discovers on a back-in-time tour of its lesser-known treasures


mention the rolling countryside, fairy-tale châteaux and renowned gastronomy. We begin our own tour in the historic city of Sens, having arrived on the train from Paris in the blink of an eye. Of course, that’s the other thing about Burgundy – it’s so brilliantly accessible. Located just 120km south-east of the capital, the train takes less than an hour. So, if you’re travelling from the UK on the Eurostar, you can be there in time for lunch.


TALKING SENS


Situated at the northern gateway to Burgundy, Sens was once a great Gallo-Roman city and also a capital of Christendom. As such, the star of the show here is the magnifi cent place of worship at its heart, the 12th-century Saint-Étienne, regarded as the fi rst of the great Gothic cathedrals in France. Renowned in particular for its pioneering ribbed vaulting, it was also an important precursor to Notre-Dame. Indeed, another highlight is the remarkable stained-glass windows that span the history of the craft from the 12th to the 19th centuries – including two stunning rose windows.


It’s best to bring binoculars to fully appreciate this kaleidoscope of colour with all its rich religious detail – including the story of Thomas Becket, Archbishop of


Cloxkwise, from top left: The hilltop ‘Plus Beau Village’ of Vézelay admired from afar; you may need binoculars to fully appreciate the stunning stained- glass windows at Saint-Étienne cathedral in Sens; a crafstman at work in Guédelon; its impressive reconstructed medieval castle; the Gothic beauty in Sens


IMAGES © CAROLINE HARRAP; SHUTTERSTOCK; G FREIHALTER/WKIMEDIA


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