GREAT DESTINATIONS
Clockwise from far left: Enjoy the Vieille Ville of Annecy; venture into the highlands; street art in
Annecy; Reblochon cheese; on the Cow Art Trail; le Café des Artistes; canal boats in Annecy; cows on their way to milking; relax at the Spa Deep Nature in La Clusaz
If you find yourself climbing up through the streets, the chances are you will have meandered towards the imposing Château d’Annecy, which dominates the skyline of the town. This former residence of the Counts of Geneva and the Dukes of Genevois-Nemours is now a museum and a perfect example of how grand architecture evolved over the centuries as fierce fortresses gradually became ritzy residences. It also has a fine view over the town and lake. Lake Annecy is a glacial lake some 10 miles long, carved out of the landscape millions of years ago to create a spectacular amphitheatre flanked on both sides by steep slopes, with the old town of Annecy at one end and a nature reserve at the other. From the old town, you can hire a small self-drive boat, take one of the jolly ferries, or book something more energetic like paddle boarding or paragliding. Whatever you do you will enjoy the extraordinary clarity of the water, turquoise in colour and, in summer, warm enough to bathe in. And soon you will be able to cycle the entire circumference of the lake, stopping en route for a stroll
“LISTEN TO THE TRICKLING WATER AND ADMIRE THE DISPLAYS OF GERANIUMS AND OTHER FLOWERS”
around the pretty village of Talloires, pausing for lunch at La Cuillère à Omble, an exceptional fish restaurant right on the lakeside, or discovering the peace and tranquillity of the Bout du Lac nature reserve. Once you’ve exhausted the pleasures of the lakeside,
it’s onwards and upwards to discover the other face of this scenic Alpine region. From Talloires, the road climbs steeply towards the village of La Clusaz, with tantalising glimpses of majestic peaks a backdrop to the high pastures where cows are calmly grazing and traditional chalets are dotted here and there. This village, despite being a highly popular ski resort, has managed to preserve its heritage as a traditional farming community. Here they produce Reblochon, the distinctive raw cow’s milk mountain cheese famed for combining with potatoes, lardons and onions to make the perfect tartiflette. At the Hameau des Alpes you can find out all about the magic of cheesemaking alongside an exhibition devoted to the early days of skiing – how did they manage on those wooden skis?!
SUMMER PLAYGROUND From this summer playground there are numerous trails taking you into the Aravis mountain range. You may even pass by one of the farms, like Les Corbassières, where the cows are brought up from the pastures twice a day for milking and the AOC cheese is made by hand in the same way it has been for centuries. When you’ve filled your lungs with fresh mountain air and your legs need a rest there’s the prospect of thermal spa treatments in La Clusaz village to ease away any aches and pains.
❯❯ Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 125
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