TOP TABLES ❘ À LA CARTE
“RANGAMA AND DEVREESE ARE DELIVERING AN INTRIGUING CONTEMPORARY TAKE ON THE FLAVOURS OF LA RÉUNION AND GUADELOUPE”
– many indentured Indians were brought to work on plantations on these islands after the abolition of slavery – and, in Guadeloupe, Amerindian. Among the mains, the squid sautéed with tandoori spices and artichoke mousseline, and the légine (toothfish in English) fillet, which is imported from Réunion, with carrots and ginger, stewed tomatoes and crispy rice, are succulent standouts. Finish up with Devreese’s airy sweet potato cake with sweet potato sorbet and cinnamon berry emulsion, and note that the wine list
here is very solid, too. Le Faham is a charming and very original restaurant. 108 rue Cardinet, Paris 17th. Tel. +33 (0)1 53 81 48 18.
www.lefaham.com
L’Ô DISSAY, CHÂTEAU DE DISSAY This magnificent château near Poitiers, which was built during the 15th century, has been renovated to offer 10 rooms for guests, and more to come in the future, and an excellent restaurant, L’Ô Dissay, helmed by chef Christophe Poard, who most recently cooked at the acclaimed Michelin-starred Park 45 restaurant at the Grand Hôtel in Cannes.
Poard, a native of Cherbourg, has also worked in the kitchens of Taillevent, Joël Robuchon and the Grand Véfour in Paris, and cooks according to the motto “make exceptional what’s already good,” as in, the finest seasonal, local produce. Poard’s style imbues traditional French dishes with a discreet and very personal creativity, and a welcome lightness, as seen in starters like his tartare of smoked beef with caviar, and main courses like the daube of Poitou lamb with ratatouille and a jus de thym; and pigeon breast with oyster sauce. Desserts are excellent, too, including a chocolate fondant with coconut ganache and a pear poached in Souchong tea syrup with grilled almonds. Service is flawless, and the dining room itself has a regal elegance with a huge mirror over a wood-burning fireplace and a large tapestry on one wall. 111 place Pierre d’Amboise, 86130 Dissay. Tel. +33 (0)5 49 11 11 11.
www.chateaudedissay.com ❯❯
From top: Kelly Rangama and Jérôme Devreese have set up Le Faham in the same arrondissement as Le P’tit Canon; this is the husband and wife team’s first restaurant of their own; the restaurant blends the cuisines of La Réunion and Guadeloupe
Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 75
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