BURGUNDY ❘ HIDDEN FRANCE
Canterbury, who spent four years in Sens during his exile (spoiler alert: it doesn’t end well). Aside from the 13th-century window depicting his life, you can also see his recently-restored vestment – regarded with an almost supernatural reverence – in the fascinating museum next-door. Also, 2020 marks the 850th anniversary of his death in 1170, so look out for special events on both sides of the Channel.
Incidentally, spare a thought for the local brewery that decided to name a range of beers after the saint using the aforementioned window as their inspiration. Only thing is, they accidentally picked the wrong person and their ‘Thomas Becket’ beers now feature a picture of someone else entirely.
That evening, we spend the night at La Fausse Sauge – a private hamlet, near Mézilles, in an exceptional natural setting. Here, the owner Beatrice has spent several years restoring the former farm buildings to create a selection of luxurious apartments, along with an indoor pool, Finnish sauna and cosy dining room. Later, we all tuck into a veritable feast together, washed down with what else but fine Burgundy wines and, in some cases, ‘faux’ Thomas Becket beer.
“EXPLORE BEYOND THE WELL-WORN
PATHS OF THE VINEYARDS AND THERE’S A TREASURE AROUND EVERY CORNER”
BREATHTAKING BASILICA The next day, we set off on a pilgrimage of our own to another major site of Christendom, the charming hilltop village of Vézelay, on the edge of the Avallonnais. Officially designated one of the most beautiful villages in France, the steep, shop-lined street takes you up to the breathtaking basilica of Sainte- Madeleine – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – with spectacular views over the surrounding landscape. Dating from the 12th century, the basilica’s story begins long before that when the original Benedictine monastery acquired the relics of Mary Magdalene. As a result, the site became a hotspot for pilgrims, including crusaders such as Richard the Lionheart, and so a more appropriate setting was required. Today, the basilica is regarded as a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, famed for its great, light-filled nave. The jewel in its crown, however, is the monumental ‘Grand Tympan’, the decorative arch over the central portal, with its remarkable carvings.
Another highlight of Vézelay, found halfway up the hill, is the recently refurbished Musée Zervos. A celebrated writer about the arts, Zervos also penned two well-known books about Burgundy, if you
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Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 79
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