TTARN-ET-GARONNE ❘ ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS ARN-ET-GARONNE
Clockwise from above: A stroll through Bruniquel, one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France; sunset over the distinctive arches of pont Napoléon, Moissac; the market square at Auvillar; cycling along the towpath of the canal de Garonne
set’), a fascinating walk through the entire social history of table dressing, encompassing everything from Tudor plates right up to contemporary ceramics and crockery.
The Garonne merges with the Tarn a few kilometres further north, at Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave, a classic bastide town dating from 1135 and built in the area’s signature pink brick. In 1658 it was the birthplace of Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac, founder of Detroit, Michigan, during the reign of Louis XIV. Visit the museum and find out how this adventurous Frenchman came to have a car named after him. A substantial riverside leisure park at Saint-Nicolas offers swimming and kayaking, camping and fishing, but the big draw in winter is the bird reserve, which attracts large numbers of migratory and overwintering species.
PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES
Nearby Auvillar is a must-see, one of three contrasting communities in the département classified among the Plus Beaux Villages de France, along with Bruniquel and Lauzerte. A medieval river port that grew rich on tolls from passing boats, Auvillar is one of my favourite PBVs anywhere, with its ancient buildings, a panoramic riverside terrace, and a circular covered market. I arrive to find early-morning mist still hanging over the quiet streets, which simply adds to the atmosphere of this village. With a long history of pottery manufacturing, Auvillar also hosts an annual ceramics fair in mid- October which attracts artists and visitors from far and wide. Look out for the eclectic mix of pottery figures positioned around town and visit the new Office de Tourisme des Deux Rives and exhibition centre.
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CHAPEAUX FOR ALL IN CAUSSADE
Northeast of Montauban, on the road to Cahors, the hat industry in Caussade employed more than 2,000 people during the 19th century. Among its specialities was the canotier style of straw boater, as worn by singer Maurice Chevalier. Just two local companies still manufacture
felt hats, while a third works in straw, but Caussade is still renowned for quality millinery, producing haute-couture designs for companies such as Lacoste, Yves Saint Laurent and Hermès. And in the midst of it all is Didier Laforest, not a hat maker but – appropriately for a man with a woodland surname – an expert maker of hat blocks, the wooden forms used by designers to shape their creations. “I work in lime wood, which is good to
sculpt, but has to be dried for three years before it is ready to use,” explains Didier, whose
grandfather made carts and whose father also worked in timber. So rare is his skill that UNESCO includes Didier on its Patrimoine Vivant list of Rare and Exceptional Crafts. Each block takes many hours to complete and Didier is currently working on commissions for clients in Sydney, Berlin and Paris. Meanwhile, his Russian wife, Aliona, produces exquisite floral decorations for hats and headpieces from silk and leather. Their workshop lies behind a shop and
show room packed with headgear, from straw boaters to berets, wedding hats to Peaky Blinders caps. Drop in to browse or buy, but book ahead for a workshop tour by Didier (June-September for individuals) and an insight into local and global millinery. Chapellerie Hats Blocks Laforest
www.hatsblocks.com
Hats for sale at Chapellerie Hats Block Laforest, where the blocks on the shelves are the main business Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 111
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