LA VENDÉE ❘ GREAT DESTINATIONS
There is a road bridge at the southern extent of the island connecting Noirmoutier to the mainland, but twice a day, when the tide goes out, you can also drive along the passage du Gois from Beauvoir-sur-Mer to the island village of Barbâtre. Timings of the tide are clearly indicated to ensure you make it across with plenty of time to spare.
On this route you can catch a glimpse of the oyster farms before the tide comes back in and submerges them. Despite the opening of the road bridge in 1971, the passage du Gois – often referred to as the island’s umbilical cord – remains busy. And every year an international road running race, the Foulées du Gois, is held along its length, with runners racing against the tide to make it across as the water rises steadily above their ankles.
As well as offering outdoor pursuits and some of the finest cuisine in the region, the island also boasts some incredibly beautiful coastline, so don’t feel bad for taking some time out to kick back and relax on one of the many serene, sandy beaches hidden along the island’s many coves. It is all part of the wonderful Vendée experience! FT ❯❯
extensive oyster and shellfish farms can be seen at low tide along the coastline. This beautiful outcrop into the Atlantic Ocean has built a real name for itself as a foodie destination, while outdoor pursuits are also incredibly popular – there is a cycle route around the island’s entire 84km coastline.
It is often around two degrees warmer on the island than it is on the mainland, and mimosa can be found growing here from the end of January – in fact, it often comes into flower here before it does in Nice. Renoir also famously commented on the quality of the light on the island, likening it to that of the south of France, and it has since drawn many artists looking to capture its beautiful landscapes.
ALL YEAR ROUND
A 12th-century castle overlooks the town of Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, while the recently restored Hôtel Jacobsen now serves as a museum showcasing the importance of the island as a port and the wealth this trading activity generated. Today a lot of the wealth is generated by tourism. The island as a whole has a permanent population of 10,000 people, but it attracts visitors all year round and in high season there can be up to 100,000 people here at any time.
Apr/May 2020 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 41
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