GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ TARN-ET-GARONNE


“THE CANAL TOWPATH IS ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR VOIES VERTES IN FRANCE, A LEVEL TRAIL FOR CYCLISTS AND WALKERS”


From Auvillar, I head back through Moissac to the northern fringes of the département, where it’s been recommended I visit Montpezat-de-Quercy. This charming Cité de Caractère is the kind of place I could imagine putting down roots, a small town of 1,600 people with medieval arcades and remains of ramparts, a 14th-century gateway and panoramic countryside views, but equally importantly, a buzzing local community and cultural programme.


Clockwise from top: The arched Pont-canal du Cacor, near Moissac; the 15th-century maison des Chanoines (canons) at Montpezat-de-Quercy; entrance to the canons’ lodgings


SAINT MARTIN DE TOURS Don’t miss the Collégiale Saint-Martin with its fi ve Flemish tapestries from the 16th century depicting the life of Saint Martin de Tours in glorious full-colour detail, or the 15th-century maison des Chanoines behind the church. Then head to Caussade, home to hat block maker Didier Laforest (see previous page) and see if you can resist a new hat from his boutique! After a Saturday night stay at Le Couvent de Neuviale, a charming guesthouse near Parisot, I drive east to the banks of the Aveyron river to experience the Sunday morning market in Saint-Antonin-Noble- Val. In summer, the river here is splashed with colourful kayaks; in autumn, the water is quiet, but the town centre is buzzing with seasonal produce and craft stalls. But you only need turn down a quiet side street for the full-on atmosphere of centuries past. The carved heads of medieval lovers on the Maison de l’amour; elegant arches and lintels; and a wealth of historic buildings.


Follow the winding corniche from Saint-Antonin above the Aveyron Gorges and you soon pitch up in the


112 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Apr/May 2020


plus beau village of Bruniquel. Or at least at the foot of it. Bruniquel is another stunner, with narrow streets leading to two lofty castles built side by side on the cliff edge. Movie buffs will recognise locations from the 1975 fi lm Le vieux fusil starring Romy Schneider and Philippe Noiret. Bruniquel’s Old Castle dates from the 13th century, the new one from the 15th, and their interiors refl ect changing styles through to the 19th century. Don’t miss the small exhibition about ongoing archaeological research into circles of broken stalagmites found 300m below ground. Dating back 176,500 years to Neanderthal times, they are the oldest subterranean human traces in the world.


And so to Montauban, on the banks of the Tarn, founded in 1144 by the Counts of Toulouse to protect their northern territories, and now prefecture of Napoleon’s newest département. A staunchly ❯❯


IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, GILLIAN THORNTON


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