GREAT DESTINATIONS ❘ TARN-ET-GARONNE


Protestant city in a largely Catholic country, Montauban’s octagonal fortifications were destroyed in 1629 by Richelieu, who commissioned a new Catholic cathedral at the highest point of the town. Built in white stone to stand out from the city’s pink brick, this statement church overlooks a large square currently under refurbishment as a public garden with underground car park. Stay at the Hôtel du Commerce for a friendly base in the city.


MUST-DO MONTAUBAN Clockwise from top: The


view over the plus beau village of Bruniquel; the place Nationale at Montauban, which was rebuilt in red brick during the 17th century; the Toulousain-style belltower at Caussade


One must-do experience while you are in Montauban is to take a café table in place Nationale, the trading and civic heart of the city since the 12th century. Rebuilt in red brick after a fire in 1649, it has roads emanating from each corner and double arcades on all four sides. Look for the metre rule that stands on the corner of rue Princesse and rue Malcousinat, one of just four in France and used for measuring lengths of the local thick woollen cloth, or caddis.


Montauban was also the birthplace of two contrasting artists: the painter Jean-Auguste- Dominique Ingres in 1787; and the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle in 1861. See work by both illustrious Montalbanais in the newly refurbished Ingres Bourdelle museum housed in the former riverside bishops’


“ON THE PLACE NATIONALE, LOOK FOR THE METRE RULE THAT STANDS ON THE CORNER OF RUE PRINCESSE AND RUE MALCOUSINAT”


114 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Apr/May 2020


palace. Less well known, but equally noteworthy, is 18th-century playwright and champion of women’s rights Olympe de Gouges. Executed by guillotine in 1793 for opposing the Revolutionary government, she is proudly remembered in Montauban. Before I head to Toulouse airport for my flight home,


there’s still time to raise a glass to this bijou département at Château Boujac in Campsas. Here, on the left bank of the Tarn, Michelle and Philippe Selle produce organic PDO Fronton wine, red and rosé varieties made from at least 40 per cent Négrette grapes. You can taste on site and buy at vineyard prices, but why not go one step further? Visitors can order picnic baskets to enjoy on farm walks, play their own private escape game in the cellar, or reserve a bespoke wine and dine experience. Three very good reasons for me to plan another trip soon! FT


IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, GILLIAN THORNTON


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