CITY FOCUS ❘ ROUEN ARLES
Clockwise from above left and inset below: Intricate portico carvings on the Saint-Trophime Church; the Roman amphitheatre was one of the largest in the Roman world; the legendary architect Frank Gehry is contributing to the skyline of Arles; Nobel Prize winning poet Frédéric Mistral; the traditional Saintes Maries della mer on the Camargue
impact on contemporary art, and don’t miss the breathtaking city and river view from the terrace. Picasso’s association with the city is less well-known, a pleasant surprise for visitors to the Réattu Museum of fi ne arts, modern and contemporary art. Housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, the collection was kick-started in the 19th century by a donation of works by neo-classical painter Jacques Réattu. And in 1965, the fi rst photography department in any French beaux arts museum was inaugurated here. Pablo Picasso fell in love with the museum and donated 57 drawings in 1971, one of the fi rst public collections devoted to the artist. Look out too for the letter from Van Gogh to Gauguin, the only original Van Gogh in the city!
IN THE FRAME
Photography was in its infancy when Vincent set up his easel around Arles, but Lucien Clergue, friend of Picasso and Cocteau, was a founder of the city’s International Photography Festival. Staged from early July until late September each year, this unique event takes place in venues ranging from galleries and churches to museums and outdoor spaces. Clergue also worked on establishing the Réattu Museum collection of photographic prints. And since 1982, Arles has been home to the National Photography School, the only one in France dedicated to the art. Amongst the city’s many notable museums are the Museon Arlaten (Provençal for Musée Arlésien), created by poet Frédéric Mistral, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature for Mireille, a poem in Provençal. Look for his statue in Place du Forum. Opened in 1896, the museum charts the development of local life from the 18th century to the present day and reopens this year after a major refurbishment.
NEW LANDMARK
The most eye-catching addition to the city this year will be the completion of the an art and culture centre in an emblematic building designed by Frank Gehry. Its 56m twisted tower is built using recycled materials and rises out of the Parc des Ateliers, a former railway siding transformed into leisure park.
50 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Apr/May 2020
This year will also witness a uniquely Arlesien event – the election of the Queen of Arles. Many famous travellers, including Dumas, Flaubert and Mérimée, have hailed the Arlésiennes as the most beautiful women in the world, but the fi rst modern Queen of Arles was elected in 1930 and there have been just 23 since. Far from being a non-PC beauty contest, the aim is to elect a young woman who will be an ambassador for local culture. A jury will select the winner for her knowledge of local history, literature, tradition and lengo nostro, the language of Provence. She must then uphold and promote them all throughout her three-year reign.
May 1st is also the date of the annual Fête des Gardians, so expect some lively celebrations. The gardians – or Camargue cowherds – gather on Boulevard des Lices before parading through town to salute the statue of Frédéric Mistral. But any time is party time in Arles, with festivals and exhibitions throughout the year in a city that captivated Vincent and will surely captivate you too. FT
ARLES ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE
BY CAR
From Marseille, take the A709, A9 and A54/E80 to Boulevard Georges Clemenceau in Arles. Take exit 5 from N113.
Arles
BY TRAIN & AIR Fly to Marseille. The TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon takes just over four hours.
TOURIST INFORMATION Arles Tourist Offi ce: Boulevard des Lices, +33 (0)4 90 18 41 20; www.
arlestourisme.com. Book guided city tours or Camargue excursions.
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT For gastronomic dining, Atelier de Rabanel has 2 Michelin stars and a glowing reputation,
www.rabanel.com. Gillian stayed at Hôtel Le Calendal beside the Roman arena (
www.lecalendal.com). Or experience modern art in a Renaissance building at the Arlatan Hotel, new in 2019,
www.arlatan.com
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