yard, stable & paddock Gourmet Grazing


Q - We need help with fertiliser. Should we fertilise or shouldn’t we and if yes, when and with what type of product? Should we plan to apply fertiliser more than once in the grazing season and if yes, should each application be of a different specification? We have seven ponies, a mix of native breeds and finer, sports ponies, so we don’t want grazing that is too rich or lush, but we do want nutritious grazing that will provide what they need. What do you recommend for our 10 acres of land that is on heavier clay-type substrate? Answer - The first and most important step is to have a soil analysis done on all your fields. This will tell you what the status of the soil is and most importantly the pH or acidity level. The analysis should also include trace element levels, as in some cases nutrients can be ‘locked up’ by high levels of one trace element or another. Your local agricultural merchant should be able to help you with this sampling service and also advise what course of action, if any, is required. An ideal pH level would be between 5.5 and 6.5, as anything below or above those figures would depress optimum growth and require remedial dressings to improve the situation. To correct a lime deficiency, which is the most common problem, you could use a contractor to spread a lime based dressing. Alternatively, the use of calcified seaweed would


be a good choice as it can be applied by yourself using a small spreader towed by an ATV, tractor or 4x4. This type of product is slow release so will work over an extended period, altering the grass growth pattern gradually which is good for grazing animals and it will also provide a number of trace elements and minerals. When the pH is correct the other factors to consider are the level of Nitrogen, Phosphates and Potash, (NPK) all of which have a part to play in the growth of grass and any other plant. If there is a deficiency in any of these three it can be corrected by a careful choice of bagged fertiliser from your agricultural merchant and applied using a small spreader as before. Specialist slow release fertilisers are available specifically for equestrian paddocks with the right ratio of NP and K to suit your situation. It is important to seek expert advice with your choice of fertiliser and knowing your soil status is crucial to these decisions. Normally a balanced fertiliser will be chosen to supply adequate levels of NP and K for growth, plant strength and good root structure. Too much Nitrogen can lead to an excessive growth of rich grass, which may cause colic, laminitis or obesity, all of which must be avoided. In the example of seven ponies with ten acres available on a clay type soil, this is a good start and depending on the annual rainfall, which could require careful management of the area to avoid plunging in wetter times,


the acreage would be more than enough for grazing and perhaps a small area of conservation (hay or haylage). To accommodate this you would need to ensure the type of grass you have will respond to this treatment; a mixture of coarser and finer grasses with ryegrasses, fescues and timothy to provide a balanced growth and without weeds or ‘grass sick’ areas. You would need to prepare smaller areas within the field with temporary electric fencing to control the grazing and resting areas, where topping and fertilising, if necessary, would be carried out. This would ensure a short, even, nutritious sward was available throughout the summer months.


Q - How can we control buttercups? They seem to be coming up everywhere at present and we only had them sprayed three years ago. How do they spread and what can we do to minimise this? Our land is gently sloping, but still quite wet and they seem to thrive! We had a young horse with a blistered mouth last year and are keen to be on top of the problem, whatever it takes, so hope you can help. Answer - Buttercups can be a big problem and will take over a paddock if not checked. They are a weed that likes poorer ground that is compacted and not well drained. Check the pH of the soil which needs to be around 6.5 and correct using lime or calcified seaweed if it is slightly acidic. Try to improve the fertility


with the experts at Logic


using a balanced fertiliser and compaction with poorer drainage can be greatly improved by using an aerator like Logic’s ‘Terr-ator’ spiker, to open up the surface. Buttercups usually start in bare patches where there is no competition, so harrow and over- seed any such areas to keep the paddock grass cover as good as possible. Topping will not kill them but it will reduce the amount of seed they produce so will reduce the spread of the existing plants. If the infestation is in local patches, using chemicals is probably the most effective way to get rid of them and using ‘Glyphosate’ in a hand held wand to carefully wipe over the plants is probably the most successful. Whole field treatment will require a selective herbicide and ones containing aminopyralid, which is safe for grass and grazing animals, would be a good choice. It has a low hazard rating for mobility and persistence in soil. Treatment would be easier if you do not want to save clover, or there is no clover in the sward anyway. However, before selecting any herbicide have a chat with your local agricultural supplier who will have contacts with agronomists to advise the best course of treatment for you particular situation. As with a lot of deep rooted plants, buttercups will be difficult to eradicate in a single treatment. There will be recovery to some extent and this should be treated in the same way or with a slightly different herbicide, again ask an agronomist for the best advice.


Logic LTA160 Terr-ator ‘slitter’ to aerate swards, improving drainage and plant health


Equine Page 28 www.theequinesite.co.uk


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