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Horse Behaviour


Sue Palmer MSc MCSP continues with part 2 of is it Brain or Pain series


My horse won’t stand still to get on


In my experience, the large majority of horses who won’t stand still to get on are communicating pain of some form. It may be that the saddle doesn’t fit, in which case a qualified saddler is the first person to turn to. You should have your saddle checked at least once a year (personally I’d recommend twice), because even if the saddle still fits, the flocking might need adjusting. Remember that as your horse changes weight, the fit of your saddle could also change.


The pain could be musculoskeletal. He may have had a recent accident, for example slipped in the field, played too boisterously with a friend, pulled back when tied up, or got cast in the stable. Or he may have an underlying issue, such as arthritis, or tendon or ligament damage. There is clear evidence to show that lameness, even sub clinical (i.e. a mild lameness that doesn’t show up on trot up or noticeably affect his performance), can lead to back pain. If this is the case then you should call your vet or a Chartered Veterinary Physiotherapist


www.acpat.co.uk


In my opinion, only once you are sure that the problem is not pain related is it morally right


to try to resolve it through behavioural techniques. The most common problem is a horse swinging his quarters away from the mounting block. The easiest way of resolving this is to have a mobile mounting block, and line your horse up between the fence and the mounting block so that his quarters are blocked by the fence.


Many horses walk forwards as the rider is trying to get on. To stop this from happening you need to be very quick with your timing, and use the reins to correct your horse as soon as he begins to take his first step, rather than allowing him to move four or five steps before being effective at stopping. Then rather than moving yourself forward to where your horse has ended up, bring him back to where he was asked to stand in the first place (this is most effective if you can do it without having to step down from the mounting block!).


Make sure that the mounting block is the most comfortable place for him to be, with plenty of strokes and scratches in his favourite places. Avoid patting him, as this is energising and will be counter-productive when you want him to stand still! When you do get on, it’s important that your horse doesn’t move a single foot (except to balance himself!) until you ask him to do


so. You can encourage this by giving him a treat (I recommend carrot or herbal treat rather than polo) from either side once you are in the saddle, before you ask him to move. This will have the added benefit of loosening his neck and shoulders at the beginning of the session and will improve the ease and quality of his work.


For help with your horse’s behaviour, visit


www.intelligenthorsemanship.co.uk


to find your local qualified Intelligent Horsemanship Recommended Associate.


Sue Palmer MSc MCSP is a freelance Veterinary Physiotherapist (ACPAT Category A) and Equine Behaviourist (Intelligent Horsemanship Recommended


Associate), in addition to holding the BHSAI qualification. Based in Stafford, Sue travels throughout the UK helping horses and their owners overcome physical or behavioural difficulties, and teaching the Horse Massage for Horse Owners course. After several years away from competing to develop her career, Sue is hoping to begin again with a friend’s young Appaloosa gelding, the very handsome Marlon.


is it Brain or Pain


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