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TRAISENTAL Markus Huber Ried Berg Grüner Veltliner 2021 (13.5% ABV)
Traisental DAC Compared to Markus’s Alte Setzen, there is more mineral energy here—the lick of salt, the feeling of dried apricot. Great concentration and good balance. A very attractive, fruit-driven Grüner. | 93
WAGRAM
Diwald Ried Eisenhut Riesling 2020 (12.5% ABV) Wagram
Delicate on the nose, with fresh tarragon, chamomile, and zesty lime. Lots of mineral nuances to enjoy in this light yet subtly textured wine. A real charmer that has surely benefited from an extra year’s aging. Organic-certified, wild-fermented, and unfiltered. | 93
Fritsch Ried Mordthal Riesling 2021 (12.5 ABV)
Wagram DAC Delicate and yet energetic and brilliantly fresh. The nose shows preserved lemon and perfumed lime, while the palate is filled with little mineral details and nuances. Such a pretty wine, with that perfect combination of uplift, complexity, and refinement. | 97
VIENNA Overripeness is starting to be an issue in some vintages here, but the 2020s seem to have hit a sweet spot, at least for those growers who exercised care with the harvesting date.
Christ Ried Wiesthalen Gemischter Satz 2020 (13% ABV)
Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC No divinity here—just divine wine from Rainer Christ (rhymes with mist). Pithy and tangy, with mouthwatering acidity and a real lift to the palate. Plenty of concentration and that lovely complexity that good Gemischter Satz achieves, but here in a lighter frame than some. | 93
Wieninger Ried Ulm Gemischter Satz 2020 (14% ABV)
Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC From a steep Nussberg parcel, Ried Ulm always seems the freshest of the three single-vineyard Gemischter Satzes. A super-satisfying feeling of big texture, complexity, and power, but with grace and balance. A field blend of nine varieties, with a panoply of ripe orchard fruits, a splash of dried apricot, and Mediterranean herbs. Aging recommended. | 95
CARNUNTUM This region has opted to focus purely on reds when it comes to single-vineyard wines. Spitzerberg is undoubtedly the top site, though other high scoring wines came from Schüttenberg, Haidacker and Rosenberg. The transition to the next generation is a key theme for many estates, as this region is still finding its feet.
94 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023
Pelzmann Ried Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch 2020 (13.5% ABV)
Carnuntum DAC A big jump in quality from previous vintages, and a resounding vote of confidence in son Klemen Pelzmann. A stalky, peppery Blaufränkisch with nice acids and a lick of delicious sour cherry. Quite tannic at the moment but with the freshness and fruit to overcome that in time. | 92
Dorli Muhr Ried Spitzerberg-Kobeln Blaufränkisch 2019 (13.5% ABV)
Carnuntum DAC I’m unsure about Dorli’s decision to vinify and bottle her four Spitzerberg parcels separately. An ad hoc blend of all four bottlings felt more harmonious to me. Kobeln is the most accessible and charming of the four, with spiced red fruits on the nose, and sour red cherries on the palate. Creamy and nutty tannins, restrained extraction. Elegant, medium body. | 94
BURGENLAND With the huge winemaking diversity in this region, it’s hard to make generalizations. The past two years were at times disappointing, with some established names underperforming. The trend of some producers to an increasingly lean, austere style can be an issue.
Prieler Ried Steinweingarten Weißburgunder 2020 (13.5% ABV)
Leithaberg DAC Perfumed on the nose, with notes of white- currant and fresh thyme. Fresh and crisp, but with good body and an airy openness to the texture, which I associate with the variety. Well worth aging for another two years, it surely has more to give. | 92
Birgit Braunstein Ried Thenau Blaufränkisch 2019 (13% ABV)
Leithaberg DAC Cherry compote and a fiery schnapps hint on the nose, with an expressive palate: a belt of sour cherry and lively acidity. A lean and thirst- quenching style that strikes a great balance between fruit and the more herbal, textural notes of the variety. | 93
Feiler-Artinger Ried Oberer Wald Blaufränkisch 2019 (13.5% ABV)
Leithaberg DAC The beautiful cassis-and-blackcurrant-leaf perfume catches the attention first. With very bright acidity, this is a light and deft style that shows wonderful freshness. It also pulls off the trick of feeling lean and refreshing, but without lacking concentration. | 95
Erwin Tinhof Gloriette Blaufränkisch 2019 (14% ABV)
Leithaberg DAC Less noticeable new wood than in previous vintages. Tinhof’s Gloriette (Ried Setz) is a real overachiever. The wild-cherry fruit is very appealing. Sensational fruit definition and focus, with ripeness and roundness but also elegance and restraint. Accessible now but can age. | 94
SÜDBURGENLAND
Thom Wachter Ried Szapary Alter Garten Blaufränkisch 2019 (13% ABV)
Eisenberg DAC Thom’s signature style, with some whole-berry maceration to enhance the cassis perfume. It’s irresistible when it creates a wine of such elegance and fruit purity, but it’s also well structured, with creamy tannins that don’t intrude or mask the fruit. | 94
Weinbau Weber Ried Ratschen Blaufränkisch 2019 (13.5% ABV)
Eisenberg DAC A lovely lick of sour black cherry on the nose, and a bit of that almond/maraschino thing, too. True to the variety, with creamy tannins, good fruit focus, and everything in balance. Excellent value. | 91
THERMENREGION
Gebeshuber Rotgipler Ried Student 2019 (14.5% ABV)
Gumpoldskirchen Charming up-front fruit, showing some salted peach and pear notes. The exuberance of the variety speaks clearly, but the fleshy apricot and peach fruit feels elegant and harmonious. Nice evolution, too, more than justifying Johannes Gebeshuber’s policy of holding back the release for two or more years after the vintage. Wild- fermented in 400-liter barrels, certified organic in conversion to Demeter. | 91
Stadlmann Zierfandler Ried Mandel-Höh 2020 (14% ABV)
Traiskirchen Typically Stadlmann, with a feeling of classicism, restraint, freshness, and a nice acidic lift—not something one takes for granted with this opulent, high-alcohol variety. Some almond, almost marzipan-like notes on the nose. At first sip, this 2020 feels straightforward and fruit-driven, but it quickly reveals more nuance and complexity with air. | 90
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