Sarah Marsh MW
then litchee aromas on the palate. Spicy attack, really nicely intense. Straightens and focuses, to a racy and sappy mineral finish. 2025–28. | 87–88
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Encégnières
Plenty of concentration in this excellent village wine. Full-bodied and punchy, with a firm follow-through. Very good example. Some muscle. 2026–30. | 90
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot-Dessus
Powerful and broad. Quite exotic, with litchee and pineapple fruit. Rich, creamy, and ripely rounded. Concentrated wine, balanced with just a nice amount of acidity and a tropical finish. Picked on the second day, this had good ripeness at 13.3% ABV, showing the concentration of old vines planted in 1927. 2026–30+. | 94–95
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Boudriotte
Fresh, deep, and straight-cut on the front palate, this gathers momentum and more breadth, but stays channeled and fresh, with lively, cold sapidity to finish. More aloof than the Macherelles. 2026–35+. | 93
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Macherelles
This has richness and density, and is super- exuberant; juicy and lightly sumptuous, undercut with freshness, which carries the finish. Really good balance, with a bit of everything. 2026–32+. | 92
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Sous le Puits
From vines just under the wood; always good acidity. The smoothness and richness of the oak showing for now on the front-palate, but I like the white-peach notes and it focuses to a straight, silky, clean, and light line. Much more floral to finish. Moves beyond the oak to delicacy and intensity. Appeals to me. 2026–30. | 92–93
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Only one larger 380-liter barrel from Francois Frères, made specially for this vintage. This cooper is very prompt. Two days after ordering, Bachelet received the barrel. The new oak accentuates the freshness on the palate. Loads of concentration at the front, while being more delicate, floral, and pure as it stretches across the palate. A high-toned, fine, and floral finish. 2027–35. | 96
Red
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Boudriotte
Morello-cherry fruit and five-spice. Thicker, richer texture and smooth tannins. Supple at first, with more grip and oak on the finish. This gives freshness. 50% new oak, as just two barrels, but roughly the same proportion is used each year. Burly. 2026–30+. | 87–88
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
DOMAINE JM BLAIN-GAGNARD Jean-Marc Blain said he had no problems in the vineyard in 2021. He grasses between the rows and thinks it was more difficult for people who had plowed. I tasted both the reds and whites and have made a selection from the whites. I like the fact that there is only a smidgen of new oak at this domaine. The one barrel and a quarter barrel of Montrachet have none at all.
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Boudriotte
Juicy and succulent aroma. Compact palate. Strong and cold. Good sapidity. It has a lively punch. Somewhat muscular, but so fresh. 2027–35. | 94
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Caillerets
Upright, cool citrus aroma, flows into a silk-smooth river on the palate. It has the fluidity of entwined minerals, fruit, and freshness. Refined and intense, with a soft-salt finish. 2027–35. | 95
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Strong anise, with hint of bitter chocolate. Dense and compact, mouth-filling and generous. Showing a softer, burnished acidity. Smoothly persistent and swanky, with a hint of cocoa powder to finish. 2026–35. | 95
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Ripe, litchee aromas. Just slightly exotic. Also very aromatic on the palate, with dried mango. You can tell Jean-Marc has to catch this early, and it was indeed the first to be harvested. Full-bodied and rounded, softish but underscored with sufficient freshness. 2026–33. | 95
Le Montrachet Grand Cru
Much more aloof than the Criots-Bâtard- Montrachet on the nose. Precise and focused on the palate. Channeled and intense. Very persistent. Interestingly, it is also slightly exotic right at the end. 2027–37. | 97 –98
DOMAINE BRUNO COLIN Bruno Colin managed to vinify every climat separately, although this produced just one barrel of several wines, including En Remilly. He has been using 350-liter barrels since 2015, but had to resort to traditional 228-liter barriques for some cuvées in 2021. The scant 114 liters of Chevalier-Montrachet is aging in a glass globe. He has extended his négociant activities, including an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, so that he is able to supply wine bars.
White
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot-Dessus
This has tension, richness, and depth all at once. A broad, firm, sapid, and very persistent palate. 2025–30+. | 94–95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Truffière
Pink perfume and a warmer feel. Satin texture, succulent and generous on the front, but then it focuses to become straight, tight, and very saline on the finish. 2025–35. | 95
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Raised in a glass globe. Pure, deep, and tight, with powerful intensity. Super-long finish, carried on a cold and austere line. 2026–30+. | 97
Red
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Maltroie
This is the swan song for this wine, as this parcel, too, has been replaced with Chardonnay. The parcel was in the middle of Chardonnay vines and too difficult to manage. Ripe, silky fruit, with good intensity on the rounded body. A really rather refined and pure Pinot expression of Chassagne (Pinot Fin), with spicy aromatics and a super- smooth texture. 2025–30. | 91–92
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 199
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Vergers
A fruitier tone and a touch more richness than the Chaumées, with a hint of apricot. A lick of gloss, as it flows, succulent and smooth, with plentiful energy. And there’s freshness to finish. 2024–30. | 92
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly
Perfume drifts across the palate. Fine-boned and pure. Slightly exotic litchee fruit entwines with a salty line. Lovely persistence and intensity. 2025–30+. | 95
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Boudriotte
From the lieu-dit of Champs Jendreau. This is much more elegant than the Morgeot. It combines richness with drive and depth, and has a glossy and sapid, fresh finish. 2025–32. | 94–95
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Chaumées
A light and silky wine; a refined palate, with a high- wired line. Fine and pure, this whistles along. So stylish. One of the best this vintage. 2024–29. | 92
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Maltroie
Exuberant, with a rich, chunky, and generous feel, and sweet acidity to finish. 2024–32. | 93
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Morgeot
Earthier aroma. Punchy and vigorous. Packed in. Dense. Barges onto the finish. Very Morgeot. 2025–35. | 93
2021 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE BEAUNE
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