CONTENTS Regulars
10 CONTRIBUTORS The tasters and writers in this issue.
18 NOUVEAU Neil Beckett on 2022 Burgundy and the 162nd Hospices de Beaune charity auction; Raymond Blake on the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne; Tom Stevenson on the 2022 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championship Results; William Kelley on Terry Leighton; Walter Speller on Luciano Sandrone; Adam Lechmere on Steven Spurrier’s memorial service.
40 LIQUID ASSETS EARLY INDICATIONS THAT THE MOMENTUM SEEN THUS FAR IN 2023 LOOKS SET TO CONTINUE Chloe Ashton delivers the latest wine-auction news and views direct from the salerooms, rounds up the fourth quarter and last year, and sees some hints of sunshine on the horizon.
50 PREVIEW David Williams on The Routledge Handbook of Wine and Culture, edited by Steve Charters, Marion Demossier, Jacqueline Dutton, Graham Harding, Jennifer Smith Maguire, Denton Marks, and Tim Unwin; Simon Field MW on Philipponnat: 500 Years of History at the Heart of Champagne by Yves Tesson and Charles Philipponnat; Michael Schuster on Andrew Jefford’s Drinking with the Valkyries; Stuart Walton on English Food: A People’s History by Diane Purkiss; Michael Schuster on 2020 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2012 Salon, and 2014 Delamotte; Robin Lee on the Masseto Caveau Release; Anthony Rose on 1982 Charles Heidsieck Crayères Collection and the Roederer Late Release Vintage Series; Simon Field MW on 2012 Sténopé, 2013 Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs, and Mumm RSRV; Joanna Simon on Frèrejean Frères Champagne; Anne Krebiehl MW on Arras’s latest releases.
78 REVIEW Simon Field MW on 1926 Ruinart and Marqués de Murrieta’s 170th anniversary vertical tasting; Simon Woolf on Austrian single-vineyard wines; Margaret Rand on Ornellaia Bianco; Anthony Rose on Selvapiana’s Bucerchiale 40th anniversary vertical tasting and Tolpuddle’s ten-year vertical tasting.
8 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023
Opinion Issue 79 2023
16 L’ÂME DU VIN ECOLOGIES OF WINE Harry Eyres on the similar green thinking of two very different Frenchmen.
38 PRISE DE MOUSSE APPELLATION VERSUS TRANSFORMATION David Schildknecht on the interdependence of cépage and provenance.
86 MYTHS & REALITIES A DEDICATED FOLLOWER OF FASHION Do grape varieties have intrinsic characters that come through time and place, asks Benjamin Lewin MW.
108 IN VINO SANITAS THE RULES, MYTHS, AND FACTS OF HANGOVERS Dr Erik Skovenborg on the science of the morning after.
113 SINOPHILE
A CHARM OFFENSIVE Ch’ng Poh Tiong on the fundamental difference between charming and impressive wines.
126 CELLAR DOOR STEVE SMITH MW AND THE FABRIC OF NEW ZEALAND WINE For Nick Ryan, a trip to New Zealand at a difficult time for the country was a reminder of the closeness and solidarity that exists in the Kiwi wine community.
218 FINISH WINE IN DANGER Michel Bettane on the numerous threats to the future of the French wine industry.
Tastings
160 ONE BOTTLE 1982 CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD: CURTAIN UP ON THE MODERN WINE WORLD Andrew Jefford reflects on a single interesting bottle.
163 TASTINGS The distinctive World of Fine Wine tasting philosophy and protocol for both blind and open tastings, as well as the members of the permanent panel.
166 LAYING DOWN 2021 BURGUNDY: THE YEAR THE GODS STOPPED SMILING Conditions for the 2021 Burgundy vintage were undoubtedly challenging. But while it may not go down as a great year, the best producers were nonetheless able to make small quantities of fresh, elegant, energetic, and terroir-transparent wine from a full range of climats, says Sarah Marsh MW.
202 LAYING DOWN 2018 BAROLO: SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL WAS POSSIBLE While it may not be a great vintage—and while it is certainly a step down from its high-performing predecessor—some attractive, drinkable wines in a lighter, “Pinot-like” style were made in Barolo in 2018, says Andrew Jefford, as he introduces a tasting shared with Bruno Besa and Michael Palij MW.
210 SAVOR OREGON CHARDONNAY: ADVANCING SERENELY Andrew Jefford introduces a high-scoring tasting shared with Anthony Rose and David Williams in which all three panelists found much to enjoy in a range of “complex and assured wines of subtlety and finesse” from a corner of the Pacific Northwest that is clearly heading in the right direction.
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