Sarah Marsh MW
Richebourg Grand Cru
Depth and concentration. Compact, with layering of vivid fruit. Complex wine with intensity and transparency. A very fine and persistent finish. 2028–35+. | 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Maupertui Grand Cru
This has breadth, structure, and intensity. The tannins are just firm, but finely textured. There is light muscle with sapidity and intensity. Almost charming. Pushes into a persistent, savory finish, with bitter almond at the end. 2026–35. | 94–95
DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET As ever, Jean-Nicolas Méo destemmed everything. “We saw the vintage was nice and light and we didn’t want to extract too much, or it could become thin and aggressive. A post-ferment maceration at 86ºF (30ºC) was important to solidify the links between color and tannins.” The wines were quite light when barreled down, but in the summer, he saw the depth and color had stabilized. “The delay between barrel down and the beginning of MLF was very important.” He finds them “a little like 2007, ripe without being high alcohol, fine and delicate and lower acidity. The result is not so far away.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Murgers
Rich, juicy, and concentrated. Really rather sumptuous, with milk-chocolate tannins; amply round and smoothly textured. Very inviting. 2026–30. | 93
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brûlées
There is a ripe and energetic attack to the exuberantly fruity palate. Finely textured tannins. 2026–30+. | 93–94
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Chaumes
Fresh and light, silky textured, with powdery tannin. I like the perfumed finish. Quite elegant. What a pretty and delicate Chaumes. 2026–32. | 93
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cros Parentoux
Floral aromas. An elegant, silky textured palate, with freshness, fine red fruit, and crisp acidity entwined. Lively energy and precision. Delightful. 2028–35. | 96–97
Richebourg Grand Cru
Depth of rose-petal aroma. Sumptuous, deep, and firm, but it also has an airiness. Smoothly structured. Supple muscle. Velvety. Intense rather than concentrated. This is contained and restrained and impressive in length. 2030–40. | 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Excellent Vougeots. Strong but civilized. Plenty of depth and intensity. Broad but not at all burly. Sophisticated. Very intense and super-persistent. Lovely, long finish. 2028–40. | 97
DOMAINE
MUGNERET-GIBOURG A little more new oak this vintage, as the yields were low. There are just one and a half barrels of the Nuits-Vignes-Rondes, and one was new. I spotted some quarteaux (quarter barriques) in the cellar, too.
Bourgogne Lutenière
In 1935, the vines for the Bourgogne were declassified from Vosne-Romanée status. Delicious red-fruit aroma. Bright, fresh, and vibrant, and yet so supple and silky. Spot-on. 2023–26. | 86–87
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Feusselottes
Ripe aromatics of wild-berry fruit. Juicy attack to a succulent and generously fruity palate. A jelly- bean underbelly, which is energized and pepped with sweet acidity. 2026–35. | 93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
Perfumed and inviting. A bright and zesty palate, with a taffeta texture. Quite spicy and sparky to finish. 2026–32. | 93–94
Vosne-Romanée Colombière
Lovely concentration and richness from these 90-year-old vines, which is balanced with vibrant acidity. This has plenty of vitality on the finish. Certainly more matter here. 2026–30. | 91
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Restrained power and muscularity. It is broad and quite dense, but equally it has freshness, energy, and a more lifted and elegant feel. 2028–35. | 96
Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Clear, pure, upright aroma. Sweet ripeness of redcurrant fruit lightly swathes the tight steel-wire core. Very finely textured. Cool, savory minerality comes through on the very well-sustained finish. Quite a delicate but intense Ruchottes. It is very precise and salty at the end. 2028–35. | 97
NUITS-ST-GEORGES
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT The domaine lost 60% of its whites. The fruit from young vines, planted in the early ‘90s, which have been bottled as Gerbotte, have gone into L’Arlot in 2021, and will continue to do so. No whole clusters in 2021, because the maturity, says winemaker Géraldine Godot, was, like the weather, capricious. This year, she used only remontage. “I wanted to take the fruit and not to extract aggressive tannins.” The first year for both these approaches. “We don’t have the same analysis and we must experiment.” A fine and precise flight of wines.
White
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont From a lieu-dit above Clos de Fôrets. The domaine
Wet-stone minerality and light citrus notes on the aroma. Neat and trim and lightly rounded, with fresh-grapefruit acidity. Apricot and flowers on the finish. 2024–29. | 92
Red Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
Just three barrels of the red this year, one new. Violet and redcurrant-fruit aroma. Bright energy on this fresh and crunchy palate. It has quite a snappy feel. Sour-cherry notes and a lick of licorice at the end. Most attractive. 2023–25. | 85–86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de L’Arlot
From 60-year-old vines. A light, flowing, silky palate, threaded with freshness. Airy. Finishes with some tension, on an attractive aniseed note. Delicate and long. So much finesse. 2025–35. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges
A wilder feel to this wine. Firm, taut, and quite muscular. Earthy and savory. Full-bodied, strong. There is light chew to the texture, and smoky graphite to the punchy finish. 2027–35+. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Cuvée Mont des Oiseaux
From younger vines in the upper part of the Arlot vineyard. Quite upright. Very finely texture. Icy crackle. Has a crystal character to the texture. Lively redcurrant fruits and floral finish. 2026–30. | 91
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Suchots
Deep red fruit, red rose petal, and some spice. Sumptuous and velvety; full-bodied and generous. The fruit gently cloaks the palate. Almost a caress. Quite unusual for Suchots at this stage. The floral softness continues onto the persistent, aromatic finish. Gorgeous. 2026–40. | 96
Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru
Floral aromas. Distilled rose petal. Uber-intense and focused; streamlined and concise. Tight energy. Fine, silky texture. A beautiful, lingering finish, with fine vibration. Sensational. 2029–40. | 99
JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET White Fixin
Attractive almond aroma. Slim, straight, and savory, with piquant acidity and sappiness. Good energy
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 187
owns around 2.5 acres (1ha) here, and the upper two thirds are planted to Chardonnay. 15% new oak. A light, floral and citrus aroma. Silky, straight, bright, and racy, with pithy grapefruit to finish. Really like it. 2023–24. | 86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de L’Arlot Blanc
2021 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197 |
Page 198 |
Page 199 |
Page 200 |
Page 201 |
Page 202 |
Page 203 |
Page 204 |
Page 205 |
Page 206 |
Page 207 |
Page 208 |
Page 209 |
Page 210 |
Page 211 |
Page 212 |
Page 213 |
Page 214 |
Page 215 |
Page 216 |
Page 217 |
Page 218 |
Page 219 |
Page 220
