TASTING
WACHAU There are two very clear stylistic factions here. The more old-school version is the riper, botrytis- influenced style, which still has its fans. But an increasing number of growers prefer to exclude any botrytis influence and aim for a more elegant, pure-fruited style. 2021 was considered to be a near-perfect vintage, after the significantly cooler and more challenging 2020.
Johann Donabaum Setzberg Riesling Smaragd 2021
Wachau DAC Fresh lemon peel on the nose and lots of salty, mineral energy and detail on the palate. A refined and elegant style of Riesling, with delicious lime- and-lemon fruit that feels focused, restrained, and characterful. | 95
Weinhofmeisterei Hirtzberger Bach Riesling Smaragd 2021
Wachau DAC Very textured and leesy, with a lovely spiciness and delicate citrus and salt notes, which add freshness. Lots of complexity and length without feeling heavy. Has the Smaragd richness without getting too big or dense. | 92
Domäne Wachau Achleiten Riesling Smaragd 2021
Wachau DAC Compare this to the domaine’s Achleiten Grüner, and it’s clear that Achleiten was born for Riesling. Elegance and lift, with spicy, zesty citrus tones and freshly made lemonade. Notes of crushed herbs, lemon verbena, and thyme. Nicely concentrated but with elegance and refinement as well. | 94
Klaus Prager - Riesling Smaragd 2021
Wachau DAC Bright acidity and a note of dried apricot and mango, giving a feeling of concentration but with no sacrifice in freshness. A subtly creamy texture, staying lifted and fresh to the very end. A complex style with depth and energy. | 91
Domäne Wachau Kreuzberg Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2021
Wachau DAC A refreshing and crisp Federspiel, with quite considerable concentration and length. Refined and elegant, with pear and white peach. Fair play to the domaine for proving that top sites do not have to be expressed only through Smaragd. | 92
Georg Frischengruber Kreuzberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2021
Wachau DAC Strongly characterized and very lively and fresh. Some pear fruit on the palate, with peppery, salty, and mineral notes providing the excitement. Attractive weight, good length and concentration. From a site on the so-called right bank of the Wachau. | 93
KAMPTAL An increasing number of growers are choosing to show wines from the previous vintage. This is welcome, since tasting single-vineyard bottlings that have had only nine months to get themselves together can be frustrating. 2020 was a cooler, more mixed vintage, whereas 2021 was optimum.
Hirsch Ried Gaisberg Riesling 2021 (13% ABV)
Kamptal DAC Delivers effortlessly on acidity and freshness, but also has body and complexity. There’s a wonderful mineral interplay with the citrus and gooseberry notes, and some mango hints, too. Lots going on, great aging potential. | 92
Jurtschitsch Ried Dechant Grüner Veltliner 2020 (12.5% ABV)
Kamptal DAC There’s a lovely feeling of concentration here, despite the light body and wonderfully elegant weight. The fruit majors on ripe pear with a hint of apricot pith and a lick of salt. So refined; it stays typical to the variety but with the poise expected from this estate. | 95
Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Lamm Grüner Veltliner 2020 (13% ABV)
Kamptal DAC A lifted, spicy character that suggests mild botrytis. The freshness and energy is wonderful, and a sweet candied note on the finish adds to the charm. Doing just great with a further year after vintage. As ever for this estate, it’s a refined and restrained style. | 93
Birgit Eichinger Ried Heiligenstein Riesling 2021 (13% ABV)
Kamptal DAC
Candied lemon and lime peel, a seriously tangy and quite ripe style that fizzes with energy and has plenty of depth. The mineral refinement is there on the finish. Although very young, this has what it takes to become a great Heiligenstein. | 92
Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Heiligenstein Riesling 2020 (13% ABV)
Kamptal DAC Tight and mineral, still with its youthful nerviness, but that extra year of aging reveals more elegance and depth. Expressive lime and passion-fruit flavors, with exceptional balance, length, and structure. | 95
Bründlmayer Ried Loiserberg Grüner Veltliner 2021 (12.5% ABV)
Kamptal DAC A filigree style of Grüner from a site with stony soils mixed with a little loess. Bründlmayer’s reading shows beautiful acidity, notes of candied citrus peel, and fresh herbs. It dances across the palate with great refinement, while never losing its nervous energy. | 95
Jurtschitsch Ried Loiserberg Riesling 2021 (13% ABV)
Kamptal DAC Loiserberg achieves even better results than Heiligenstein at this biodynamic-certified estate. The nose offers promising notes of lime and mineral salts, and the palate fizzes with energy and excitement, finishing on a lick of smoked honey. Glorious verve and energy, one to age. | 97
KREMSTAL
Sepp Moser Ried Breiter Rain Grüner Veltliner 2021 (13% ABV)
Kremstal DAC Focused and nuanced, with buttery, green capsicum notes nestling in next to pithy apricot fruit. More fruit-driven than in previous years— and all the better for it. Attractive and expressive, with great balance. | 93
Petra Unger Ried Gaisberg Riesling 2021 (13.5% ABV)
Kremstal DAC Refined and delicate, with a stone-fruit character in addition to some lime and mango notes. Unfolds to a wonderfully stony, mineral finish. | 92
Geyerhof Ried Kirchensteig Riesling 2020 (12.5% ABV)
Kremstal DAC Limey and fruit-driven, with passion-fruit notes that make you salivate and go back for another sip. The nose is expressive, filled with citrus essential oils. A delicious, lightweight style that nonetheless packs a punch. | 94
Mantlerhof Ried Moosburgerin Grüner Veltliner 2020 (12.5% ABV)
Kremstal DAC Nicely developed after an additional year’s aging, with a candied fruit core and delicate saltiness. A light and refined Grüner, with subtle pear-fruit notes and great length. | 92
Malat Ried Pfaffenberg Riesling 2020 (13% ABV)
Kremstal DAC The nose reminds me of freshly made lemonade— lemon peel offering up all of its essential oils. Lively mango and passion-fruit notes on the palate. An expressive style with focused fruit and a bright future for the next few years. | 93
Familie Proidl Ried Ehrenfel Riesling 2021 (13% ABV)
Kremstal DAC Sensational energy. The acidity is off the charts, but it doesn’t feel over-the-top due to the beautiful mango and passion-fruit notes. This is a wake-up call, a wine that uplifts and makes you plead for the next sip. Sure to improve given another year and more. From a site rich in slate, gneiss, and marble. | 96
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 93
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