Sarah Marsh MW
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Damodes
Very pretty floral aroma. High-toned, with lively red fruit and a frosty edge to the tannin. Straight and well-edged. Crisp and crunchy. Light and pretty. Delightful Nuits. 2025–30. | 91–92
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
Good intensity of forest fruits and violets on the aroma. Light satin texture enfolds a rather strict, cool, even steely core. The finish brings together warm aromas and sapidity, and there is a light vibration on the finish. A little austerity is nice. “The is the swan song of Cazetiers, as many old vines didn’t survive in 2021.” In 2022, the vines planted by Ewan Faiveley’s grandfather in the 1960s and ‘70s were pulled out. The domaine owns 10 acres (4ha), so there will still be some production. 2027–35. | 94–95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux St-Jacques
Red-peppercorn aroma. Fresh red-fruit burst on the attack, to a straight, light-bodied palate. Fine core wrapped in rather exotic aromatics. Floaty, silky texture and slightly mineral to follow through. 2025–30. | 91–92
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Vibrant aroma of wild strawberries. Super-fine gossamer texture on the intense, cool, and focused palate. Taut and well-defined. Very refined. Lively tension on the persistent and streamlined finish. 2026–35+. | 96
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Dark, woodland aroma, with glimmering highlights. Vigorous attack to the fullish palate, which is deep, rather compact, and layered with earthy and graphite minerality. Plenty of vitality on the finish, which pushes through very convincingly. 2027–35+. | 96
Echézeaux Grand Cru En Orveaux
Rich, satin fluidity to the palate. Streamed with a fresh and cool acidity. A very harmonious wine, which glides into the well-sustained finish. A good expression of this cooler situated lieu–dit. 2027–35. | 95–96
Musigny
Intense aromatic. This is destemmed by hand, leaving only the pédicelles. The finely woven, silky texture envelopes the firmly structured core. It is surprisingly expressive, with deliciously succulent, almost opulent, fruit. Expressive, even exuberant, yet profound. Superbly long and ringing finish. 2028–40. | 98
DOMAINE DU CLOS FRANTIN This 18-acre (7.3ha) domaine is owned by Albert Bichot.
Light and floral aroma. A fine-textured and aromatic NSG. Flows elegantly and lightly on a medium-bodied palate, with a perfumed puff to finish. 2024–28. | 90–91
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chênes Carteaux
A little reserved on the nose, but I like the suede-soft texture and the sweet fruit, which combines with a firm line of freshness. 2025–28. | 93
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts
Gingerbread and compost aroma. Succulent, with a rich, earthy undertow. Plenty on the front-palate, including oak. Quite a showy wine, which finishes relatively well, but I would like to see a little more layering and complexity for this top-notch climat. Bling, but perhaps a bit short on substance this vintage. 2026–30+. | 91–92
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Slightly exotic perfume, together with ripe redcurrant fruit. Muscles in with a large frame. Modest depth and layering mid-palate. It has punch and grunt, showing decent typicité, and is crisp and crunchy on the finish, with lime-zest freshness. 2026–30+. | 92
DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES Only a very light remontage to preserve the fruit. Just a 10-day vatting period. The wines are certainly light, elegant, and rather perfumed. It is only when you reach the premiers crus Vaucrains and Les St-Georges that you find some of the grip and muscle, albeit light. I rather like to see more in Nuits-St-Georges. I particularly like the white premier cru Perrières.
White Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Perrières
Henry Gouges was very instrumental in drawing up the appellation rules for Nuits-St-Georges, so the authorities (the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, as it was then), in recognition of this help, gave him special permission to plant his mutant Pinot in 1936. A pungent graphite aroma combines with spicy pear. Textural and firm, the palate is enveloped in a cloud of aromas from the spice market. The underlying core has edge, and the firmness carries the finish. 2023–30. | 92
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Clos de La Fontaine Jacquinot
Perfumed and high-toned. Ripe cranberry, with anise. Quite spicy. Light crunch. Red peppercorn with lively acidity. Piquant to finish. The most interesting village wine of those I tried here. While the other cuvées were destemmed, this had 20% whole-bunch. 2022–26. | 87–88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Porrets St-Georges
The 9-acre (3.5ha) Clos des Porrets is a monopole of the domaine. Low-toned, tarry aroma; asphalt and yet also floral. A succulent and juicy attack to the generous palate, which is quite opulent for 2021. Richer, darker, and thicker tannins than most. Not the most refined, but the muscle is quite well-toned. Modest finish. 2025–28. | 92–93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Vaucrains
Succulent and supple. Smooth and fruity. A surprisingly accessible and generous Vaucrains for both the climat and the vintage. Low swing and depth mid-palate. An underbelly. Velvety and deep, with milk-chocolate tannins and a fresh, earthy finish. 2026–31. | 93–94
CHÂTEAU GRIS This 8.5-acre (3.5ha) walled vineyard is a monopole belonging to Albert Bichot.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Château Gris
Lively aroma of dark chocolate and black pepper. Svelte unfurl, with finely edged bitter-chocolate tannins. Love the silky fine texture and intensity, underpinned by sappy freshness. Silky smooth stretch on the finish. A sophisticated Nuits. 2027–35. | 94–95
DOMAINE DES PERDRIX
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Perdrix
A quasi-monopole, the domaine having all but three rows. A velvety aroma and a surprisingly sumptuous attack. A lightly glossy, satin texture. The fruit is chased through with plenty of freshness and a lick of licorice. A well-sustained, bitter-cherry and mineral finish. 2026–35. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Terres Blanches
A refined and detailed Nuits-St-Georges. Silky and pure, with a fine, talcy texture, it ripples to a nicely extended finish. Delightful. 2025–35. | 94
DOMAINE DE LA VOUGERAIE
Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle
A new acquisition for the domaine, previously made by Jadot. The broad palate is dense, spicy, and concentrated, flecked with notes of cinnamon and toasted hazelnuts. It’s underpinned with freshness and tension. 2025–30+. | 93–94
Clos Blanc de Vougeot Premier Cru
Expressively fruity aroma, with apricot and grapefruit, while the palate is powerful, concentrated, and compact, and much more savory. Muscular layering. It has an appetizingly dry and nutty persistence. 2026–30+. | 94–95
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 189
2021 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS
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