Sarah Marsh MW
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Fuées
Concentrated and yet bright. Lively tension and precision. It has depth and intension. More complex and layered than the rest. Warm minerals to finish. 2027–35. | 95
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Gruenchers
So crunchy and vibrant. Zesty, with morello-cherry fruit. A slight bitterness, good tension and bite. Tacky quality. Pushes on. 2026–35. | 94–95
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Véroilles
Focused and straight, yet it has such intense ripeness of raspberry fruit. So, it seems really quite sweet on the mid-palate, but well-balanced with mineral freshness. Ghislaine waited and picked this late. Delightful. 2025–30+. | 93
DOMAINE L BOILLOT ET FILS I tasted for the first time with Clémence Boillot, who explained that he used less extraction and shorter macerations than usual—an 18-day vatting, rather than the normal 21 days, with just one pigeage. No new oak. Some parcels belonging to Domaines Barthod and Boillot are now managed biodynamically. “A classic vintage,” says Clémence, “but as I
began with my parents [Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod] in 2015, I have not much experience with this kind of vintage, and it was a challenge for me to imagine how the wines will be in bottle. There was less fruit-maturity so, you cannot have powerful wines. We go the same way as the fruit, with low extraction.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cherbaudes
This is vigorous and dense. Punchy and vital, with depth, density, and a firm follow-through. 2027–35. | 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Pruliers
Super-juicy and a really rather energetic wine. Damson-ripe fruit and creamy milk-chocolate tannins. Plenty of personality and a lightly punchy finish. Smoothly textured and supple for a south-side Nuits. 2027–32. | 94
Pommard Premier Cru Les Croix Noires
The vines in this quite special lieu-dit are at least 70 years old. Rich aroma, juicy, fairly full and gutsy, with quite some concentration. A firm, more traditional Pommard style than some others this year. 2026–32. | 92
Volnay Premier Cru Caillerets
Ripe summer fruits with a slightly exotic, litchee and grapefruit perfume; it flows into a tight, lean, and mineral profile on the palate, with a salty finish. Light-bodied, accessible, and quiveringly mineral. 2025–32. | 93
DOMAINE JF MUGNIER “A classical climate comparable to 20 or 30 years ago, remarked Frédéric Mugnier of the 2021 vintage. “Not too hot. Relatively cold, with regular rain—the kind of year growers don’t like much, as the work is difficult, with the pressure of disease and the need to spray regularly. It was stressful… But wines from such vintages can be the most delicious to drink.” He went on to make the following vintage
comparisons: “I think of cold vintages like 2008, which was a crystalline vintage, and 2010, and maybe 2002, but in 2021 the grapes were riper than they were in 2002. My 2002s were pale at bottling and thinner in texture, yet developed in bottle and now they are quite dark and fleshier. I am more confident about the 2021s. For my wines, thinner vintages tend to put on weight, and big vintages slim down with time. Maybe it is my winemaking that makes these lighter wines thinner at bottling, while other producers’ wines show more flesh in the wines earlier. I use very little new oak, about 15%, and reductive winemaking must be part of it. Very few of the wines I have made in my 38 years are no longer alive. I have learned that wines often last much longer than you expect.”
White
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de la Maréchale
Just three barrels this vintage, rather than the usual 14. Rich, ripe pear and nutty aroma, with spicy, marzipan notes on both nose and palate. Lots of texture in this sturdy and savory wine, which has thickness and density. “The grapes are always very ripe, and in this year the yields were also very low,” explained Frédéric. 2025–30. | 93–94
Red Chambolle-Musigny
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de la Maréchale
Dark fruit on the nose, with an iodine note. Juicy bramble fruits and a lightly robust texture, gravelly grip and freshness to finish. 2026–35. | 92
Chambolle-Musigny
Expressively perfumed, with a lightly exotic purple note. Delicate and pure, with a gauzy drape of tannin. Light chalky minerality and salinity to finish. 2026–35. | 91
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses
Rich floral depths. A sumptuous aroma. Smoothly gliding, with a seductive texture. Sleek and purring, this is fleshier in the middle, so persistent and lively, with glossy minerality to finish. 2027–35+. | 96–97
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Fuées
Smoky, graphite aroma. Sweetly ripe, with delightful raspberry fruits, concentrated yet so light and dancing. Silk-textured. High-toned and pure. Sappy, with racy tension and savory minerality on the finish. Love it. 2027–35+. | 95–96
Delicious ripe raspberry fruit on the nose and front-palate. Delicate. Slim but intense. Very pretty and well-defined. Silky on the finish. A delight. 2025–33. | 91
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses
Red rose petal (the aroma of Parkdirektor riggers rose). A fairly full, lightly opulent, and supple palate. Sumptuous, intense, and focused. It has volume with airy lightness. Focuses to a long and tight, mineral yet aromatic finish, with a breath of soft garden herbs and the perfume of dried roses. 2027–35. | 97 –98
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Cras
Excellent intensity and focus of summer fruit. A direct, well-defined, neat, deep, and pure palate, with savory sapidity to finish. Quite salty. Intensity of pure fruit and salinity perfectly juxtaposed. Love this. 2026–35. | 95
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Since 2016, the breakdown of soil types in Christophe’s holdings has been 35% brown and 65% white. “I am very happy with the new
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 185
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Deep, red-cherry fruit with floral notes. Anise, almond kernel, with some grip and plenty of vitality. Firm, glassy crunch to the tannin. Slightly muscular, but also edgy. Straight, strict finish, with a note of sappy bitterness adding freshness to the end. Intriguing. 2026–35. | 95–96
Le Musigny Grand Cru
Finesse, precision, and impressive intensity. Great depth combined with superb elegance. Super concise. 2030–40. | 99–100
DOMAINE GEORGES ROUMIER “I have no fear that these wines will deliver great pleasure from five years,” remarked Christophe Roumier, adding, “but I am confident with the vintage for aging, too, as the wines are in balance. I think of the 2008s, which have now reached their peak and can be enjoyed. The 2008s have surprised me. I told everyone to drink them young, but in fact they have aged well. 2021 is unlike 2008 in style and quality, but alike in its capacity to age. I like to compare 2021 with 2007.”
Bourgogne
Yields were tiny, so there were only four barrels of this wine. Silky red fruit. Supple and juicy mid- palate, quite crisp. A light crunch to the finish and a touch of licorice. Pure and delicious. Excellent Bourgogne. 2024–30. | 86–87
Morey-St-Denis Clos de la Bussière
Quite a spicy aroma. Succulent, plump, earthy, and lightly robust, with graphite minerality to finish. 2026–33. | 89–90
2021 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS
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