tasting / laying down / 2021 Burgundy
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Corbeaux
The vines are on single stake. Black-satin aroma and a sumptuous texture. Purrs on the palate. Plenty of concentration, but comes up behind with cold grip. 2027–35. | 94–95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Ergrot
An enclave in Petit Chapelle, but greater depth of topsoil and there is no limestone. (I believe Domaine Ponsot also make a premier cru from Ergrot, which usually goes into a blend.) Previously this went into Le Capita. Smoother upfront than Petite Chapelle and softer. It is more generous, well- mannered, and rather less burly. 2026–34. | 94
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Petite Chapelle
White-pepper and garden herbal aromas. A vigorous wine, with body, muscle, and density. Meatier tannins, but quite smoothly done, and it punches into the finish. 2027–34. | 94–95
Le Chambertin Grand Cru
Three parcels with different soil types, so a good view of the climat. Fine, streamlined, and pure. The most even and harmonious and longest of the three grands crus here. Great finesse, and yet strong and tremendously long. A thoroughbred. 2030–40. | 99
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Smoky aroma, which I sense is the limestone. Deliciously juicy, with lively sweetness upfront, quiet in the middle for now, and on the finish, lingering on savory and salty notes. Sweet and salt juxtaposed. A good Chapelle. 2030–40. | 97
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
They pulled back on whole-cluster, from 100%, to 70% in 2021. This is focused, clipped, and chiseled. There is austerity. Cut-glass edges. Persistent, ringing finish. Love it. 2030–40. | 98
MOREY-ST-DENIS
DOMAINE DUJAC Jeremy Seysses comments, “There is something electric about 2021. There may be some elements of 2000, which has aged so well. It is not very tannic and reductive now, so there is a possibility that the wines may shut down aromatically in bottle for a couple of years.”
White Morey-St-Denis
Cool and fresh aroma, with a hint of apricot. Juicy and bright, with a good line of acidity. Quite spicy to finish. 2024–28. | 87–88
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Les Mont Luisants
This was planted in 1998. Always the lowest pH in the cellar. Silky, keen, and straight. Clipped edges
184 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023
Rich and austere. Flesh of fruit envelopes the firm, cool, stony core. Firm and powerful to finish. Austere, ripe, and grippy. Top-notch. 2030–40. | 98–99
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Supple, gliding, and intense, with a crushed lemon- balm freshness, maybe coming from the whole bunches. It is light, flowing, and aromatic, with soft herbs of marjoram to finish. 2027–35. | 95–96
MAISON DUJAC FILS & PÉRE Jeremy Seysses used fewer whole bunches in 2021, as the fruit wasn’t as good. But he comments, “There was much more density in the wines than I initially thought.” For the village wines, only remontage was used; no pigeage this year.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Cras
Made with fruit from Jeremy Seyesses’s favorite grower. “A perfectionist, he has impeccably tended vines and is now organic. Old vines with good yields and small berries.” Silky fine texture, slim and elegant. NSG with a salty line. Very trim. So pure. This has translucency to the terroir. 2025–30. | 93
and slightly austere. Good intensity. Cuttingly savory. I like it a lot. 2025–30+. | 94–95
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Combettes
Good concentration upfront, apricot and lightly tropical notes. Certainly some density. Softer acidity. Glossy and slightly exotic to finish. 2024–30. | 94–95
Red Chambolle-Musigny
A crisp, delicate, and energetic red-fruit Chambolle. Light-bodied and racy. Piquant, red peppercorn. Light, fine tannins. Pirouettes on the palate. Not that long, but a delight. 2025–28. | 87–88
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Gruenchers
Perfumed and juicy. This has plenty of impact. Layered with spices, minerals, and fruit. It is overt and super-spicy to finish. Maybe not the most elegant. A showy, bling wine. Crowd-pleaser. 2026–33. | 92
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Aux Combottes
Suave wine. Good intensity. Chamois-leather tannins, freshness, and vitality. Neatly woven. An impressive Combottes. Pushes through on the finish. 2026–35. | 95
Morey-St-Denis
This has lean tension and vibrancy. Quite savory and spicy. Straight, bright, and clean-cut, with a sappy, dry finish. 2025–28. | 88
DOMAINE MICHEL MAGNIEN Frédéric Magnien has farmed biodynamically since 2010. He experiments with terra-cotta vessels for aging, from smaller, 160-liter clay jars, to 350-liter amphorae. About 30% is matured in older pièces.
Morey-St-Denis Blanchards
Attractive anise and floral aroma. Talc-smooth and slippery texture. Woven with a light, smooth, chalky minerality and a savory, lightly sapid finish. It has attractive fluidity. I like it. 2024–27. | 88–89
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Chaffots
High-toned spices. White pepper and cinnamon on the upright aroma. A fine-boned, light and lively palate, with a feathering of tannin, a marked orange-zest ping, and some pithiness. Delicate and appealing. I’d like to see it a touch longer on the finish, but it’s very stylish. 2024–30. | 92
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
DOMAINE GHISLAINE BARTHOD Ghislaine Barthod would usually have racked her wines in November, but not this vintage, as they were still gaining from the lees. She describes the vintage as “dentelle [lacy] and elegant,” finding similarities with 2001, “in the body and style, but with more sucrosity and a better quality of tannins.”
Bourgogne
Part was fermented and matured in tank, part in barrel. Elegant and juicy. Pure and fresh. Redcurrant fruit. Fine texture and fruit-forward. Very Chambolle in style. So pretty. 2024–27. | 85
Chambolle-Musigny
A blend of eight parcels. Scented. Vibrant and delicate, sweet and vivid. Lightly intense, with lacy tannins and a pure, fresh, and floral finish. Spot-on for elegance. 2025–30+. | 90
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Baudes
Broad palate. Full and chunky. Powerful. Smooth but rich tannins. Earthy and dark. 2026–33+. | 94
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Charmes
A well-contained Charmes on the front palate, so fresh and lively. Grows on the mid-palate, where it becomes more obvious and opulent, but overall a more restrained and elegant feel. 2026–30+. | 93
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Chatelots
Richness of texture. Satin depth, with lightly sumptuous fruit; slightly curvaceous. I like the attractive bitterness to finish. 2026–30+. | 93–94
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Cras
Ripe but savory, too. Much more austere than the Véroilles. Sapid, with a dry, salty finish. Firm to finish. 2026–35. | 94–95
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