tasting / laying down / 2021 Burgundy
and stylistically, they are more consistent than the reds, but they may not be for you. They are often rather Cistercian. Think 2014, but with less flesh and intensity. While some appreciate pared-down minimalism, if you prefer a plusher style of white Burgundy, I suggest you wait. It’s coming your way with 2022. But heads up: There are some village gems, especially where small-volume premier cru parcels are included in the village blends; there is some premier cru Malconsorts in Hudelot-Noëllat’s delicious Vosne-Romanée, for example, and some in Drouhin’s, too. There are attractive mergers at the top end as well; Bouchard Père & Fils added the small quantity of Cabotte to its Chevalier-Montrachet cuvèe. There are also excellent Bourgognes, in both colors, from domaines on the Côte d’Or (frustratingly, not everyone uses the Bourgogne Côte d’Or classification), particularly where vineyards touch the village parcels. These express the character of the village below which they lie. They will have been fermented or aged in barrels, to keep those barrels filled, and the hint of oak fleshes out the palate; so much Burgundy terroir, albeit broad brushstroke, packed into a relatively affordable bottle. I really liked those from below Meursault. But watch out: From some négociants, Bourgogne will be made with Mâcon fruit. Many lost contracts in 2021 and sought fruit elsewhere. Also take care with some Côte de
Nuits grands crus, especially those with a relatively large area and varied potential. Recent warmer vintages have leveled those playing fields, raising the profile of inferior sections. But 2021 is more revealing. Even a good producer cannot make a silk purse from a sow’s ear. Some red grands crus feel too light, insubstantial and a touch short; charmingly fruity but lacking grand cru depth and layering. I would include some Charmes-Chambertin, which can be somewhat loose or rough, definitely Clos Vougeot and, to a lesser extent, Echézeaux. There are other grands crus where quality and identity are more consistent: Ruchottes- and Mazis-Chambertin, as might have been expected, since the terroir is more homogenous, but also Bonnes Mares, despite the difference in soil type. Perhaps the best surprise was the Corton reds—but maybe I had rather low expectations after the heady and rather
168 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023
unconstructed wines of recent warmer vintages. Producers paid attention, and I enjoyed the quite elegant results. A word on hierarchy. Among the
2021s, you will appreciate the step up apparent in top grands crus: Chambertin, Musigny, and Montrachet pull away from the pack. It is also clear, in such a vintage, that premiers crus vying to join the grands crus should be content with their status. Some argue that Pommard premier cru Rugiens and Epenots merit upgrading. Rugiens is among my favorite premiers crus, but 2021 illustrates that it’s not grand cru material, in particular the upper part, stylish as it is. Epenots makes a more convincing case, being more sophisticated and performing more consistently across vintages—but enough to compete with the upper echelons of the Côte de Nuits hierarchy? Well, that’s a tall order. Better to remain a very good premier cru than a third-division grand cru, I would say.
Vintages to compare and contrast Reviewing the red vintages over the past 20 years, the 2021s are most comparable with 2007. Both are elegant, sharing light texture and structure; freshness without high acidity. Both can be intense but are not concentrated; just nicely ripe and delicate, moderate in alcohol and body. Both vintages produced notably aromatic red wines, though perhaps the aromas of 2021 are more intense and pure. There are differences. The 2007 tannins were light and hazy, while 2021 tannins are light but well defined. There is greater precision to the palate. The 2021 reds have more personality than the 2007s. Which brings us to the charming, even charismatic, 2017s. Here we have a better companion for texture and the energetic flow of tannin, although in 2017 the texture is a touch deeper and, despite the high yields, 2017 has more concentration. Both have good energy, but possibly 2017 has a bit more zip. 2017 exceeded most expectations after a year or two in bottle, and maybe the 2021 will, too. As for earlier vintages, a comparison with 2001 will not stretch the imagination too far. At Domaine Rossignol-Trapet in Gevrey, we considered this over a bottle of Latricières 2001. The two vintages have a similar slim body and freshness, though 2021 is riper and more concentrated, and the quality of tannin is finer. We can certainly say it shares the same spirit as 2001.
It might also be compared with 2013. Both share light structure, freshness, energy, and transparency to the terroir. Many 2013s had fresh red fruit, but others a more herbal profile, with some greenness evident in older wine. I would hope there are fewer 2021s with slightly unripe phenolics. But most 2013s are drinking well now and are very pleasant indeed. With no signs of flagging, they indicate an aging trajectory for 2021. 2021 makes a marvelous contrast with the fireworks of 2020, for the 2021s are calm, gentle, serene, and much less acidic. In 2020, not only is the acidity high, but there is such intensity and concentration of matter, requiring time to fuse and evolve. In comparison, 2021 is will-o’-the-wisp: ghostly in color and tannin, and light in body. The crisp acidity, and indeed all the elements, are woven, even at this early stage. It is more difficult to make a comparison for whites; somewhat like 2007 and 2013, but 2007 was more severe and less concentrated when tasting from barrel. All three vintages are slim-textured, with freshness and finesse, but there is more intensity and juiciness in 2021. I recall 2007 was very citrus, as is 2021. Maybe a blend of 2007 and 2014 for translucency, tension, and freshness. It is not as rich, or as good, as 2014, but better than 2007 and 2013. At Olivier Leflaive, Franck Grux and I considered the 2013s over a bottle of Chevalier-Montrachet. Not so far apart in style, but there is more concentration in 2021. Maybe 2013 with some of the concentration of 2015. As for other lighter vintages, 2021 has greater spark, acidity, energy, and intensity than 2011, an early harvest that is fading. 2017 was also an early vintage, not rich, but it has a much sunnier feel than 2021.
When to drink and aging potential If you like Burgundy on the fruitier side, then I would advise tucking in and enjoying the reds. You won’t be disappointed. A vintage for easy and almost instant gratification. The skeleton is clear beneath the fruit, and they don’t need to refine. There is nothing to be gained from keeping village reds, so open them with a year in bottle, from 2024. Even the premiers crus will be ready to start drinking from 2025/27, maybe 2028/29 to approach the most structured wines, including the grands crus.
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