CONTENTS Issue 79 2023


Features


110 FACE TO FACE RICHARD GEOFFROY: METAMORPHOSIS Margaret Rand meets the endlessly creative former Dom Pérignon chef de cave and learns about his new life in Japan as the head of his own sake project, Iwa.


114 BURGUNDY PORTRAIT JACQUES DEVAUGES Jon Wyand photographs the ever-cheerful winemaker, now at the helm of the LVMH- owned Domaine des Lambrays.


116 WINE AND WORDS HOSPICES DE BEAUNE Judy O’Kane’s latest poem from Burgundy.


118 THEN AND NOW LIBERALITY, QUALITY, FESTIVITY: WINE IN THE FRENCH REVOLUTION The simplistic view of the French Revolution is of a period of chaos and extremism. But that


6 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023


was far from the full picture, says Rod Phillips, who argues that the years post-1789 were a time of era-defining progress for French wine.


128 BE OF GOOD CHEER! From the Georgian supra, to American Revolutionary pep talks, Katrina Alloway explores the cultural history and meaning of toasting with a glass and a few words.


132 PINOT NOIR IN CANADA: A PATCHWORK OF STYLES AND SUCCESSES The notoriously fickle grape variety has proved to be highly versatile in Canada, where it is being used to make high-quality wines in each of the country’s very different winegrowing regions, says Rod Phillips.


140 ON THE VINE CA’ DEL BOSCO: HOUSE IN THE WOODS In 2022, Ca’ del Bosco celebrated the


50th anniversary of its inaugural vintage. Tom Stevenson took the opportunity to catch up with its founder Maurizio Zanella in Franciacorta, taste the range, and look deeply into his technological innovations.


150 ALBION AWAKES HAMBLEDON VINEYARD: CHALK SHOW Margaret Rand travels to Hampshire to meet Ian Kellett, the former yoghurt-factory manager and investment banker who has turned England’s oldest commercial vineyard into a standout sparkling-wine producer.


154 VIN VOYAGE VELAA PRIVATE ISLAND: OTHER EDEN The billionaire Czech entrepeneur and financier Jiří Šmejc and his wife Radka have transformed a tiny island in the Maldives into a gastronomic paradise, reports Neil Beckett, after spending a few days sampling Velaa’s astonishing, thrilling food and wine offer.


Eroi di Luce by Igor Mitoraj at Ca’ del Bosco. Photography by Massimo Listri, courtesy of Ca’ del Bosco


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