Sarah Marsh MW
Le Chambertin Grand Cru
This is the first time the wine has not been matured in 100% new oak: two thirds. Silky and discreet, pure and intense. Great presence, with a truly superb finish. Spine-chilling. 2030–40. | 99–100
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
50% pédicelles and one third new oak. Ripe red-fruit aroma, with notes of milk chocolate and coffee bean. Succulent and juicy attack to a vigorous palate. Super-energetic, it pushes through on the exceptional finish, very persistent and grippy, with super-cold minerals. 2028–40. | 98
Echézeaux Grand Cru
50% pédicelles and one third new oak. Black satin aroma, with a smooth, deep, and silky glide into the palate. Sumptuous, yet underpinned with savory freshness, a chalky vibrancy, and such liveliness on the long finish. An urbane wine. 2027–40. | 95–96
DOMAINE ROSSIGNOL-TRAPET “A very aromatic vintage, with nice body, which makes it possible to keep the wines, but easier to open earlier than recent vintages,” remarked Nicolas Rossignol.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Prieur
Upright, peppery aroma. Quite a spiky attack. Skittish on the palate. Rather tart. Cranberry fruits. It is certainly lively. Herbal aromas, with some aniseed and tarragon lingering attractively on the finish. 2027–32. | 92
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Petite Chapelle
Pounces onto the palate. Vigorous. Chamois- leather tannins, which have richness and texture but are also soft and velvety. Deep and cloaking. Bramble fruit on this rounded, lithely muscular, and most appealing Gevrey. 2027–35. | 95
Chambertin Grand Cru
Scented, sleek, and fabulously focused. All the energy is channeled into a tremendously persistent line. Cool-toned and very discreet. 2028–38. | 98–99
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Alluring raspberry cordial aroma. A debonaire wine, which glides on silky-supple tannins. Underscored with smooth, chalky minerality to a persistent, talcy finish. Maybe not as energetic as the Latricières, but undoubtedly refined, and a class act for Chapelle. The vintage becomes it. 2028–35. | 97–98
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Pink peppercorn combines with floral notes and wild strawberries. Pure and precise aromatics. Delicate and intense palate. Swift, pure, and neatly edged. Light-footed and focused, with a firm thread through the core, to a fine vibration on the finish. 2028–35. | 97–98
Leathery, rich aroma, slightly sweaty saddle. Full-bodied, generous, and broad, with savory bite and tension. Long, spicy finish. 2027–35. | 98
DOMAINE MARC ROY Alexandrine Roy recalls, “It was a vintage of adaptation all the time, in the vines and in the
DOMAINE ARMAND ROUSSEAU Cyrielle Rousseau says she did very little differently this vintage in the winery. Pigeage is by machine. The domaine sustained losses of 40%, largely to botrytis, which was more severe on the older vines and spread rapidly before the harvest, necessitating much sorting. They achieved between 12.5% and 13% sugar naturally, requiring a little tweaking, primarily to lengthen the fermentation.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
The Cazetiers parcel is a slim slice from top to bottom of the hill, losing the influence of the combe, so it can ripen quite quickly. Dark fruit concentration. Shaley and fine-textured, with layering mid-palate and a bright and vivid undercut. Good tension and oyster-shell minerals to finish. 2027–33. | 94–95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St-Jacques
In contrast, this has 80% new oak. Seductive and generous. A sunny profile, with chamois-leather tannins, supple and velvety, it ripples gently with just lightly sumptuous fruit on the lingering finish. 2028–33. | 96–97
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-St-Jacques
Cool and fresh aroma, to a lean, straight, and zesty palate. Quivers on the finish. A light and delicate wine. 2026–30. | 93
Chambertin Grand Cru
Cool and reserved. Mineral, pure, and channeled. Long, precise, and streamlined. 2028–35. | 98
Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 100% new oak. Rich, seductive attack and slightly exotic aromatics. Luscious texture, generous fruit, even a touch extravagant, settles into a spicy and well-sustained finish. 2027–33. | 98
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Vigorous pounce onto the palate. Assertive and compact and layered. Battened down. Needs time. Pushes on the finish. 2028–33. | 95
Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Twenty percent new oak. Unexpectedly sweet up-front and juicy. Charming and beguiling before it cuts into a tight, lean, austere profile. The steely core is enveloped, but there is severity here and sweet/savory persistence. 2027–35. | 97 –98
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
winery. We had to be very strong, for it was so much work in the vineyard, and we didn’t know what the results would be.” Working largely with old vines, she harvested the Chardonnay after reds, for the first time, and used the lees to fatten up both. Good concentration, which she attributes to millerandage. She likes a cold, pre-ferment maceration for the reds, “for the aromatic profile and juicy charm,” and destems but keeps whole berries, pressing with some still intact to give freshness of fruit. She usually filters the reds, but not this year. The white has no malolactic fermentation and is sterile-filtered. Everything was bottled last August. The blend of the best becomes Cuvée Alexandrine, which outpreforms its village status.
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Alexandrine
Lovely intensity of perfume. Succulence and depth, with a richness of texture, crushed velvet, spiced with aromas of culinary herbs and spliced with fresh acidity. Chased up with more aromatics. 2025–30. | 92
Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
A firmer structure, deeper and satin-soft, with a lovely ripeness of dark hedgerow fruits. Enwrapped in aromatics and lightly mineral on the finish. The most elegant of the wines. 2024–28. | 90
DOMAINE J & JL TRAPET An elegant flight of wines from the Trapet family. Plenty of activity in the vineyard, as Louis, Jean-Louis’s son, is converting to single-stake viticulture. This has always been an innovative domaine, with Jean-Louis Trapet among the first to convert to biodynamics, and his sons have inherited his sensibilities. It is necessary to drill into the limestone to put in the higher iron stakes in Chapelle-Chambertin. They have pulled back a little on whole-bunch in 2021, and Louis Trapet used more pigeage. There was lower toast on the oak, and here he is experimenting, too, with different vessels and sizes of oak.
Marsannay
Fresh, elegant, and juicy. Crunchy cranberry fruits, then a light and soft floral finish. 2024–26. | 86
Gevrey-Chambertin 1859 A project of Pierre and Louis Trapet. Single-stave and 100% whole-bunch, from a vineyard purchased in 1859 on the Brochon side of the village. Old vines and 100% whole bunches. An elegant palate, woven with sweet acidity. Rather a sunny and concentrated feeling, with lively freshness to balance. Very charming, with a super-supple texture. Very good. 2024–30. | 90
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Combottes
From the south side. Louis finds it easier soil to work than Latricières, where the Trapet parcel has more clay. Here it is pebbly and lighter. It is suave and sweeping. Red fruits and light tannins. Wafts into an aromatic and well-sustained finish. 2026–33. | 93–94
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 183
2021 BURGUNDY: CÔTE DE NUITS
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