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With Federico Giuntini Masseti at The River Café, London; September 26, 2022


2019 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vineyard Bucerchiale (14% ABV)


2019 was a very good vintage across Tuscany, with a slow and steady evolution and rain at the beginning of the season. The grapes were picked at the end of September and in early October, with a larger crop than other vintages. It’s considered similar to 2016 but without quite the concentration and power—so a more classic, elegant vintage, with aromatic wines of good defi nition and refi nement. Bright, pale, cherry-ruby in color. Light cherry


and raspberry fragrance, perfumed in youth, with a gentle hint of spice. Lovely intensity of cherry- sweet fruit, whose initial sweetness is soon tempered by a juicy, fresh acidity with classic Rufi na spine, and framed by gentle, suave, even sinewy tannins, which bring an overall impression of silkiness. Very approachable, albeit classic, with plenty of aging potential. | 94


2013 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vineyard Bucerchiale (14.84% ABV)


A “classic, traditional vintage.” The weather was cooler than in previous years. Winter and spring rains allowed a good reserve of water. Budbreak and fl owering were later by some 10 days. July and August temperatures were good, helping the vines to recover. The grapes ripened gradually and slowly, with good day/night temperature swings preserving most of the aromatic compounds. Harvest started 10 days later than in 2012 and lasted until mid-October in dry weather. Showing some of the garnet of evolution; fresh


aromas, more than you might think, with red-fruit aromas and some earthiness, a touch of herb and root vegetable to the bouquet; the palate belies the garnet hue, with a sumptuous sweetness of cherry fruit, and the tannins—more substantial and rustic, from a warmer vintage, than the 2019—add a hint of refreshing astringency, helping to keep this wine elegantly fresh and dry, with good aging potential. | 93


2009 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (14.97% ABV)


Winter was rainy and mild, with early budbreak and fl owering. A drop in temperature in May caused some delay in the growth of the young shoots. Some welcome rains in July helped the vines to resist the summer heat and the dry period. September was warmer and sunny. Broad swings between night and day temperatures made the grapes close to perfect. Harvest started in the fi nal week of September and lasted till the middle of October. The crop was higher than normal. While the color is a maturing garnet, the


attractively evolved bouquet combines red fruit, light oak spice, and an underlying earthiness, with a hint of leather. This is full, ripe, and intense in taste, with a nicely textured red-fruit richness tapering to a fi nish that combines slightly dry tannins with a lively, refreshing spine of acidity in a wine of serious fi nesse. | 93


102 | THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023


2006 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (14.5% ABV)


A normal winter, mild spring, early budbreak, and fast, vigorous growth of the vines. Late May and early June were cooler than normal and slowed down growth. Late June and July were warm and allowed the vines to recover. The rest of the season was mild, with some rains at the end of August and a sunny early September. Some rain in mid-September delayed harvest, requiring fruit selection. Harvest lasted till early October. The old part of the Bucerchiale vineyard, planted in 1968, had many dead vines, so yields there were very low, at around 4 tons per hectare. Evolved garnet in color. Showing secondary


characters of mushroom, coff ee, and mint. Some initial fruit sweetness soon morphs into more savory characters, nicely underpinned by that classic, fresh acidity and tannins that, although initially chewy and tough, quite soon resolve themselves, especially when absorbed by food. | 92


1999 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (14% ABV)


Winter was quite dry but very cold. February and March were rainy, followed by an excellent fl owering and fruit-set. Summer was hot but with good, cool nights. In early September, welcome rains allowed the grapes to reach a nearly perfect level of richness and balance. Deep, evolved garnet in color, with a youthful hint of ruby still. This has a fi ne, complex secondary fragrance, combining fl oral, chamomile, and herb-like scents with a light spiciness, in a really engaging bouquet that retains its youthful freshness. The initial fruit shows a beguiling


richness and sweetness, framed by a substantial framework of tannins that soften in the glass— but above all it is cut by a lively spine of refreshing acidity. This heralds the beginning of a more modern style. | 95


1985 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (13.27% ABV)


After the extremely cold winter, in which olive trees died and the River Arno in Florence froze over, spring was fi ne and warm, with some useful rain. Summer was warm and dry, with some late July/early August rain. A long dry period, from August 26 to October 21, helped the grapes to ripen perfectly and early, with harvest starting in mid-September. It was a small crop, around 25 percent lower than normal. Vinifi cation was in cement and old chestnut casks of 25hl. With its newly designed label by Armando de Ram, the 1985 is lightish garnet in color, showing notes of dark cherry, tar, and smokiness. Some lovely, sweet, secondary fruit characters, with hints of leather, coff ee, and smoke. Still remarkably fresh, with tannins that are present but almost juicy, and good acidity brings life and texture to a wine that, although nearly 40 years old, shows the savory, almost umami quality of a remarkable vintage and the longevity of great Rufi na. | 95


1982 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (12.6% ABV)


“We remember this year, because Italy won the World Cup in Spain,” says Federico. One of the “magic trio” of 1981, 82, and 83. Winter was not too cold or rainy, spring was quite dry and warm. Heavy rains later in July caused some stress to the growth, with 4in (106mm) recorded on the 25th. August was dry and hot and led the grapes to good ripeness. September was also dry, with a couple of showers that helped avoid heat stress. Harvest started after October 10. A mature garnet in color. This shows nicely


complex aromas, combining dark-berry fruit and truffl e. The initial sweetness soon morphs into savory notes, as the chewy tannins and pretty high acidity take over, bringing a structure that has kept the wine very much alive and still fresh. | 91


1979 Chianti Rufi na Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale (12.56% ABV)


Spring was mild and budbreak earlier than usual. Cold weather in April delayed the growth of the young shoots and reduced the crop. A warm and sunny summer with some showers at the right time led the way to excellent ripeness at harvest, which took place in the middle of October. A very pale garnet hue; a gorgeous, earthy bouquet, fresh and complex, truffl ey and leathery, very perfumed, with notes of tobacco and coff ee. Lovely, delicate, sweet fruit, infused with the truffl e and leathery characters of a traditional Chianti. Light, supple tannins, albeit on the dry side, and again the refreshing acidity is very much keeping this venerable wine more than alive and well. A nice Chianti. It should go well with liver and fava beans. | 95


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