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FINEWINE


ISSUE 79 2023 ISSN 1743-503X THE WORLD OF


www.worldoffi newine.com Founder Laurence Orbach


Editorial Adviser Hugh Johnson OBE Contributing Editor Andrew Jeff ord Editor Neil Beckett


neil.beckett@worldoffi newine.com


Deputy Editor and Website Editor David Williams david.williams@worldoffi newine.com Tastings Editor Anastasia Edwards


anastasia.edwards@worldoffi newine.com Food Editor Francis Percival


francis.percival@worldoffi newine.com Chief Subeditor David Tombesi-Walton david@sandseditorial.co.uk Team Assistant Kazumi Suzuki


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Dutton and Peter Howland in The Routledge Handbook of Wine and Culture, perceptively reviewed for us here by David Williams (pp.50–52). Happily, it is wine’s ability to unify that is far more evident in this issue, many stories revolving around reciprocity, sympathy, and solidarity. The annual processional ritual of the


W


Fête de St Vincent, captured so intimately by Jon Wyand in our cover image, is one of Burgundy’s most time-honored expressions of community and common purpose. Another is the annual Hospices de Beaune charity auction, but at the 162nd in November last year there was a particularly powerful expression of solidarity when Burgundy’s négociants rallied together to honor the memory of Louis-Fabrice Latour by raising a record sum for the Presidents’ Barrel (pp.18–20). Remembering another of the dear


departed, Harry Eyres relates how time spent with Christian de Billy of Pol Roger at harvest time taught him that “the CEO of a Champagne house, however grand, was intricately bound up in relationships —that is to say, was part of a complex, interdependent ecology” (p.16). And Adam Lechmere, reporting from the packed City of London church where the British wine establishment gathered to pay its respects to Steven Spurrier, rightly remarks that “while [he] was the doyen of this once- mighty cohort, and his passing represents the end of a very particular era, he was just as revered by the younger generation of writers, bloggers, and influencers” (p.37).


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ine is one of the world’s most unifying and divisive products,” write Jacqueline


Such solidarity is equally evident


in the New World. After witnessing the empathy in New Zealand after Cyclone Gabrielle in February, Nick Ryan writes, “There’s a sense of community [here] tighter than anywhere I know in the world of wine. These people form a fabric with a thread count off the charts” (pp.198–215). Mutual respect and reciprocity between the Old and New Worlds—a theme developed by our deputy editor, David Williams, in his latest newsletter (subscribe via our website)—are leitmotifs in William Kelley’s moving tribute to Terry Leighton: “One of the many glorious improbabilities that defined Kalin Cellars was that two North American children of the 1960s [...] should have become unlikely guardians of the temple of traditional French winemaking” (pp.34–35). Rod Phillips’ insightful tour d’horizon of Canadian Pinot Noir, and our own exciting Oregon Chardonnay tasting, remind us that drawing inspiration from one region needn’t preclude the forging of a quite distinct identity (pp.132–39, 210–17). Rod also reveals how integral wine


was to the French Revolutionary ideals of égalité and fraternité, while Katrina Alloway traces the ways in which toasting forges and strengthens social bonds (pp.118–25, 128–31). Nobody explores the myriad unifying threads of wine’s web more rewardingly than Andrew Jefford, and in his sensitive reading of Drinking with the Valkyries, Michael Schuster recognizes the ways in which the range and strength of Andrew’s sympathies both gave rise to, and shine through, the farthest-reaching wine book ever written (pp.56–58).


At the Hospices de Beaune there was a particularly powerful expression of solidarity when Burgundy’s négociants rallied together to honor the memory of Louis-Fabrice Latour


THE WORLD OF FINE WINE | ISSUE 79 | 2023 | 3 Neil Beckett


Illustration by Dan Murrell. Cover image by Jon Wyand


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