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sitting in the topmost row of seats some 60metres away. Back in Poros that evening we bought hot, buttery,


salty fresh popcorn from the kiosk at the open air rooftop cinema and watched Dunkirk (English with Greek subtitles) under the stars. Waving goodbye to Poros, we headed for the


ever-busy island of Hydra and within hours were hemmed in by lots of other yachts. It is always good natured chaos in this lively little port which shares its waters with cruising yachts, superyachts, flying dolphin (hydrofoil) and high speed catamaran ferries, plus local beach ferries and fishing boats. Now began the steady business of retracing our


steps and heading back to Kalamata where we had booked in Leonie to spend the winter and where friends and family were coming to visit. We began our return voyage alongside three dol- phins heading in the same direction. Our journey back to Monem- vasia, on the eastern coast of the Pelopon- nese, took eight-and- a-half hours. We motor sailed as the light wind was on our nose. There were no other


vessels in sight the whole time. The sky was cloudless, the silky sea a millpond. We were surrounded by hues of blue and time slowed down. It was surreal. Of course, the wind picked up as we arrived at


Maleas. The following day we enjoyed a Greek meze lunch at a beach taverna at Port Kayio following a five- hour motor sail across the Laconian Gulf to the small village on the eastern coast of The Mani. As we rounded Greek’s most southerly mainland


point, Cape Matapan, Carl proudly caught his first fish of the season – a big 2kg colourful specimen we planned to cook for sup- per at our next port of call, Limeni. Disappoint- ingly, a local fisherman told us it was a dolphin fish and inedible. We since found out it is edible and very tasty! Our first three weeks


View to Kambos village, The Mani


in Kalamata at the head of the Messinian Gulf were spent with visiting


Monemvasia, blowing too fiercely for long-keeled Leonie to moor stern-to. Instead we tied up alongside the inner quay. We managed to sail for some of the six-and-a-half- hours it took to reach Elafonisos island, around Cape


friends and family, exploring the local sites including the spectacular Diros Caves and the fascinating archaeological site of ancient Messene, relaxing on beautiful sandy beaches and walking in the mountains. Cruising the Peloponnese has been a rich and varied


experience. This summer (2018) is a toss up between sailing around Crete or exploring more of the many Aegean islands. We will be happy with either choice.•


View over Kalamata city


The sparkling sea in the Messinian Gulf


Olive trees at the foot of the Taygos mountains


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