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Sarakiniko Bay (on the left), Elafonisos Island 116


Carl with his daughter Laura and friend Chris at Stavropigio in the mountains of The Mani


A traditional Greek fishing boat leaves its port in the Messinian Gulf at dusk


band struck up a stirring version of the Game of Thrones theme tune as glittering rainbow fireworks filled the sky above us. Leaving Spetses was nearly as exciting as the


festival had been as superyachts discovered they had crossed anchors with each other and the myriad of smaller yachts surrounding them. Somehow we escaped unscathed and scooted out of the chaotic creek without a hitch. Luckily it was only a short hop


to our next anchorage at Ermioni, on the mainland, as the sea was extremely rolly, churned up by the sheer number of superyachts speeding in the same direction towards Athens and the ever- popular island of Hydra. At 3am we woke to a strong northerly wind whipping around the anchorage and went out to check our anchor was holding. It was but minutes later we were back up on deck after the skipper of a nearby French boat flashed his torch to alert us our anchor was now dragging.


Below:Hedley and Carl at Epidavros amphitheatre.


Right:Leonie hemmed in at Hydra.


We had only drifted a few yards and letting out


more chain was enough to hold us securely in place although to make sure we kept a watch until after dawn, when the storm abated. Strip washes do the job but they don’t compare to standing under a powerful jet of water. Thanks to our Dartmouth friends Ruth and Hedley we luxuriated in our first shower in over five weeks (since Kala- mata). We had motor sailed to Poros where


we met up with them both over a few beers in their island holiday home and were kindly invited to make use of their bathroom – heaven! Poros is just a stone’s throw away from the mainland and Ruth and


Hedley also generously treated us to a day


trip in their car to ancient Epidavros, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the eastern Peloponnese. Built in 340BC, its breathtaking classical amphi-


theatre, one of the best preserved in the world, seats 14,000 spectators and is marvelled for its exceptional acoustics – demonstrated by Hedley whose coin dropped in the middle of the arena was heard by us


The entrance to Ormos Navarinou


Ginny getting ready to moor at Poros


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