nails: hard gels hard talk
Odour-free and capable of delivering enhancements with strength, buff-off hard gels offer an alternative to liquid & powder (L&P). Stronger than traditional soak-off gels, these products enable you to deliver flexible durability with a lightweight feel, and a finish that is super shiny.
“Hard gels are a naturally beautiful product to work with,” says Emma Gibson, Lead Educator for Moyra UK. “When I’m doing a set of hard gels on a client, I can lose all track of time while creating the perfect nail. It’s so relaxing and achieves such a beautiful finish. Gel polish is incredibly popular in the UK, but they don’t have the durability and strength that hard gels have.”
“[Hard gel] is a great product for clients who need the strength of an artificial overlay, but with a lighter feel,” explains Georgie Smedley, Director of Nail Harmony UK. “It is also a flexible overlay so is great for clients who often catch their nails, as it bounces rather than snaps from brittleness.”
“They really suit someone who has quite a flexible natural nail as gel flexes with your natural nail so you are less prone to product lifting,” adds Grafton International Educator, Jess Marks. “Or those wanting length and strength but preferring a lightweight feel compared with acrylic enhancements.”
optimum balance
You will only know which type of enhancement is best for your client’s nails after consultation, which is why this step is so important. “Once [you have] discussed and determined style, length and shape with [your] client, it’s then time to determine which coating is best suited to the client’s natural nail condition,” explains Kelly Winterburn, International Education Ambassador and member of Team CND™.
She continues: “Optimum balance between the condition of the natural nail and the strength and flexibility of the coating will produce wearable nails that are resistant to service breakdown. Opposites attract in science, the same is true of nails and nail coatings.”
Therefore, hard gel is particularly suitable for use on soft nails as this hard coating gives the right amount of durability and balance. The strength of the resulting enhancement is due to hard gel’s thicker consistency. Their self-levelling ability means they are easy to work with so long as you remember not to over work the product, which could lead to bubbling. “Remember to flash/freeze cure when needed so your gel doesn't lose its
shape and structure you’re creating,” adds Jess. “Also make sure that there is no product left on the skin before curing as if it’s too close it could cause lifting.”
“What makes hard gels so great is that they are non-porous,” explains Emma. “This makes this product popular amongst clients that work with pigmented products, for example hairdressers can colour a client’s hair without the worry of staining their nails, and for nail techs who soak-off clients’ nails [leaving] no damage to their own nails.”
Another key difference between a hard gel and a soak-off gel is the removal process. As the name suggests, soak-off gel is removed by soaking the nails or wrapping them in a removal solution; the gel can then be lightly scrapped off the nail plate. Hard gels however need to be physically removed from the nail plate by buffing. It is vital that this is only done by a trained professional otherwise intensive damage can be done. “[You] need to remember that hard gels need to be filed off, and that it takes practice and experience to recognise when you’ve filed enough and should go no further,” warns Georgie.
During your client consultation you should ascertain how long they wish to wear the enhancements for and whether they expect to have the gel fully removed at every appointment. “Because hard gels cannot be soaked off and must be filed off to remove, it’s best to apply hard gel to a client that will want to keep the extension on until it grows off the finger,” advises Alisha Rimando, Creative Director for Artistic Nail Design.
no odour
Hard gels also deliver a great solution for nail techs concerned about product odour. “Hard Gels have an advantage in that they have no odour,” explains Georgie. “This makes them an ideal candidate for mobile nail techs whose clients don’t want their home to be left with an odour, in addition to Spas where liquid & powder (acrylic) products cannot be used.”
in the mix
“What’s great about gel is that you can also mix it with other systems,” says Emma. “Layers of silk can be applied onto the nails and, rather than resin going on top, gel can be applied over the nails instead. You can also mix gel with acrylic polymer to form a putty consistency, which can then be applied with a kolinsky brush saturated in gel cleanser to achieve any 3D look without the worry of it setting too quick. Once the design is created, simply pop it into your lamp to cure with no need to remove the inhibition layer… the best of both worlds!”
Georgie agrees layering is a great idea: “You could create a liquid and powder design nail, and encapsulate the design in hard gel, which is crystal clear, and creates a magnifying effect.”
“[And] if you want a sparkly look, mixing a
little glitter for something different into your hard gel is a fab option too,” adds Jess.
Turn the page to take a look at some of the leading hard gel ranges available to you…
Hard gel is particularly suitable for use on soft nails as this coating gives the right amount of durability and balance.
74 GUILD NEWS
Image ©
IStock.com / Jelenast
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