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back to basics: moisturisers for oily skin take control


Take control of your clients’ oily skin with the latest facial moisturisers designed to target this issue.


Last month we looked at the drying effects the harsh Winter weather can have on our skin, but it’s not just dry and sensitive skin types that need an extra bit of TLC during this time of year as oily skin can also flare up in the colder months.


“In an everyday skin care routine, it is imperative to use a moisturiser all year round,” explains Paula Osborn Business Sales Manager at Skinbrands. “Moisturisers protect the skin from the deluge of harsh elements that constantly surround us, providing a barrier between the skin and the air.


“Moisturisers are not only for dry skin; oily skin conditions require them too. Those with slightly oily skin may incorrectly believe they should not add any more moisture to their skin however this is not correct. By using exfoliating products, as often those with oily skin do, the skin will start to produce more sebum worsening the skin condition.


“Not all available moisturisers will be suitable for oily skin,” Paula adds. “Thicker creams may lock in sebum causing blemishes. A lightweight, oil- free, non-comedogenic moisturiser is the therapist’s answer for their client and in truth it may be a case of trial and error to find the correct moisturiser for the client.”


Shirley Taylor of Beautytrade Ltd agrees: “Clients with oily skin types tend to think that because their skin is so shiny and has an abundance of oil they don’t need to moisturise, but more often than not this skin type can be very de-hydrated, meaning pores can look more enlarged than they need to, superficial lines can be more exaggerated and blemishes can be more obvious.”


“One of the most obvious problems of oily skin is excess sebum production,” adds Carole Jones, Director of Totally UK. “The central area of the face, forehead, nose and chin are most affected by seborrhoea as there are more sebaceous glands in these


areas. Hydration on oily skin should be hydration with specific ingredients that work to correct the sebaceous un-balance and prevent the appearance of Acne.”


what to look for


So what are the key ingredients to look out for? “Hyaluronic acid, [which is] an excellent hydrator for oily skin as it holds 1,000 times its weight in water,” says Michelle McGuinness, Founder of Heath Cosmeceuticals. “[Other ingredients include] vitamin E, a powerful anti-inflammatory and natural antioxidant helps to heal, hydrate and protect the skin; vitamin F (Linoleic acid), shown to be deficient in some Acne patients, this essential fatty acid provides skin softening and smoothing lipids improving skin texture, and Retinyl Palmitate, an antioxidant that gently heals blemishes and promotes skin renewal.


“Green Tea, offers oxygen free radical protection, skin tone rebalancing, anti- inflammatory properties and helps to protect the skin from damage to the extracellular matrix, including collagen and elastin, and finally vitamin C, which as well as being a fantastic UVA and UVB protector and strong collagen stimulator can also help to provide anti Acne benefits and skin brightening,” Michelle adds.


an age old problem


Traditionally, oily skin is associated with teenage complexions, however it’s important to note that it can affect skin of all ages and ethnicity also.


“I think it is important to mention here that being oily is not just the product of a teenage skin and is very much an issue for the more mature client as well,” surmises beauty therapist and salon owner Marie-Louise Coster. “Therefore, you must be wise with your marketing and not just try to target one age group – and in doing so alienate another. You may decide to market the same skin care and the same facial in two different ways to focus on different age groups, or market it in one way targeting everyone (if possible).”


Turn the page to see the latest moisturisers available for oily skin conditions…


GUILD NEWS 59


Image © iStock.com/Kharichkina


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