new ingredients in skin care new beauty on the block
“[These ingredients] regulate the formation of melanin and lipofuscin pigments and reduce their accumulation in the skin by activating proteasome – the recycling process for damaged proteins. It reduces the pigmentation of brown spots, prevents photo- induced ageing and evens out skin pigmentation,” explain the brand.
superfood saviours
Superfood has become a buzzword in its own right during 2016 in both food and drink and now, gradually in skin care too. Out of the 43% of ‘super’ product descriptions connected to food and drink between 2011 and 2015, 30% applied to beauty and personal care products according to research analysts Mintel. Therefore, it seems that aligning your skin care routine with your diet may not be such a bad idea.
Ingredients to look out for include the newer additions of Kale for its detoxifying, antioxidant qualities, Spirulina for its anti- ageing offerings and Turmeric for its anti- inflammatory pigment-reducing assets. These sit alongside more recognised inclusions of Avocado oil, which offers moisturising properties, and Chia Seed oil, which promises plumping, anti-inflammatory omegas and antioxidant vitamins, both of which are known to help fight against the pollution our skin comes into contact with every day.
anti-pollution beauty
Pollution in the air comes from a variety of sources. Two of the most common are car fumes and smoke. When these pollutants reach our skin, they can cause premature ageing, uneven skin tone, irritation and in extreme cases serious health conditions. Ingredients such as antioxidants, anti- inflammatories and hydrators are the key components to look out for when tackling this concern.
Marula oil is an ingredient which contains all three. Uses of the Marula Tree date back to 10,000BC, though the ingredient is relatively unheard of in today’s skin care. However, as it picks up traction, the beauty distributors Skinbrands (t: 03330 142 434) aim to use it in their Vitage Cleansing Balm scheduled to launch next year – an ideal product for cleaning away any impurities on the skin.
Amanda Coveney, Managing Director for Skinbrands explains its qualities: “Skinbrands’ favourite new ingredient is Marula oil, an anti-inflammatory, anti- microbial, anti-ageing, anti-free radical that
promotes healthy collagen and elasticity whilst being healing, nourishing and calmative. Its origin is from the Marula Tree (Sclerocaryna Birrea) revered in Africa as a botanical treasure for wound healing, scarring reduction, anti-ageing and general hydration and skin softening.”
hydration
While there are so many new phrases and terms floating around our industry, one thing we will all recognise is the need for hydration. Yet while this may not be a new discovery, the way in which we achieve it in our skin is constantly changing.
Elemis have disclosed Néré Seed as their newest ingredient for achieving hydration. Noella Gabriel, Managing Director and Founder of Elemis explains exactly how it works: “A biomimetic active ingredient, rich in biosaccharides, Néré Seed regulates the skin’s water requirements on multiple levels by stimulating the synthesis of key hydration mediators: Hyaluronic acid and aquaproins 3. These hydration mediators form channels in the skin to transport water. Water reservoirs are then created where necessary, holding water within the skin for optimal hydration. It also restores an effective functional barrier by activating epidermal differentiation and cellular cohesion.”
Meanwhile, Nimue have selected Polarised Water as the key ingredient within their Skin Resurfacing Complexes. Polarised Water enables active ingredients to be encapsulated into the small water clusters which are more readily absorbed into the cells. This ensures the cell is hydrated and working correctly while a more even distribution of active ingredients and an even peeling is achieved. Heidi Cerfontyne, International Curriculum Manager at Nimue International reveals more about how Polarised Water works: “When we add Polarised Water to the skin, it allows the water molecules to attract to one another and bond. The polarisation of the water allows the clusters to be smaller so that the water absorption through the cells is improved. This creates more optimal cell functioning which in turn will assist with optimal skin health, allowing the client to see results within her skin.”
to the core
Yet while all of these trends represent ingredients fighting for the spotlight, it seems that one thing links them all together – our clever skin. Dermalogica have taken note of this, deciding to focus their attention more
One of the most popular superfood oils used in skin care is Avocado for its moisturising properties.
on how the skin can interact with the chosen ingredient, to provide the most impressive results for the client.
Candice Gardener, Education Curriculum Manager for Dermalogica and IDI concludes with her thoughts: “One of the most fascinating areas of skin science to be gaining traction centres around using your skin’s own natural microflora to address specific skin concerns. Approximately one trillion bacteria constitute the ‘normal’ microflora of the skin. Innovative technologies can now use the power of these bacteria which reside on every skin to convert ingredients into highly active compounds that can target biological processes and structure for truly remarkable results.
“This power is being harnessed in skin care in a range of ways, including the use of Diglucosyl Gallic acid to target pigmentation. Immediately upon application the microflora begin converting Diglucosyl Gallic acid into a new compound called Trihydroxy Benzoic acid (THBA) which has four times the antioxidant power of vitamin C. THBA is biologically active, controls melanin production and brightens, whilst delivering strong anti-inflammatory impacts.
“As our understanding of the human microbiome grows, so will the application of this incredible ingredient technology.”
Please turn the page to see a range of products containing the most innovative ingredients in skin care…
52 GUILD NEWS
Image ©
iStock.com / Lecic
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